Day 34 - Guanajuato - A day in Paradise

I've been hearing alot about a town about an hour's bus ride west of here called Guanajuato (wan-a-wa-toe) and figured maybe today was the day to check it out. The night before I'd asked Barb, a lady that I met several days earlier, if she'd like to join me, as she'd never been to Guanajuato either. She agreed and we headed out early for the main bus depot. Having been been spoiled on the Premiera Plus on my trip here from Puerta Vallarta, we decided to travel in luxury, at least heading west. It was nice traveling in the daylight, as I missed about the last fifteen miles of scenary into San Miguel. Looking back to the east this is a very pictureque city nestled in the foothills of the mountains.

After about an hours busride we arrived into what I thought was Guanajuato, based on my trip through there a week ago. Turns out we needed to jump on another bus to Centro, or the center of town. This bus was a new low in busdom, with plastic seats, rickety suspension that felt every imprefection in the road, but was able to climb the long pull up hill with breakneck speed. I'd heard this town was built over abandoned mine tunnels, but was unprepared for the maze, as these tunnels were everywhere. It was also quite impressive in the way it reduced much of the surface traffic found in my cities the size of 80,000 residents. I would be negligent if I didn't mention the small child that I saw sitting in the front seat, on what was probably his grandmothers lap. He was probably the cutest child I've ever seen, with his overly expressive big brown eyes, and brown hair that just covered his eyebrows. The picture that I took really doesn't capture him the way I wanted, as he kept on looking a way everytime I tried to take his picture.

After about fifteen minutes we finally make it to the what look like the center of town. The jardin, or town square was several blocks away. In each of the Mexican cities that I have visited over the last four weeks, each of them had a square where there would be center stage surrounded by trees and large open courtyard. This one in Guanajuato topped all others with it's fountains, beautifully colored flowers and the natural canopy provided manicured trees. Around the edges were restaurants and assorted businesses. This was a special place. On the southern edge of the square was the Tietro Juarez, an ornately decorated theater. I was told later that I should have gone inside, as it was elaborately decorated with wood inlays from around the world. Next time!

One thing different about this town than all the others that I'd been to was there was a youthful vibrancy. Turns out in this city of 80,000 there is a university known for it's theater and arts program with 21,000 students. I would have loved to stayed later into the evening to see the youthful activity, but as it was we took the last bus out.

I think the most striking thing in Guanajuato was the colorful homes and businesses that clung to the bowl-shaped hillside. Every color of the rainbow was represented here. I'm sure this town would be every artist's dream, as no paint tubes would be left unused.

Every town has a mercado, and this town would be no different. But what we did find different here, outside this large two-storied building, were large trucks and generators with an assortment of large cables running out of them, through the market's front doors. Upon further investigation, we found they were filming a movie here, complete with bright lights, a large expensive-looking camera on tracks and people with headsets, standing around everywhere. At the center of all this attention. were two small children with a piggy bank, standing in front of a market booth, being coached by a director. I doubt that I will ever see this movie, as it appears everythig was in Spanish. But from what I've learnt before...never say never.

Before I left, I ask Juan, the owner of Cafe Etc if I could only see one thing in Guanajuato, what would it be? Without hesitation he said the Museo de las momias or the museum of the mummies. So after a very long walk up a very steep hill guided first by big signs pointing the way, and then by hand painted signs on the sides of buildings and finally by locals, who must have gotten conditioned to the migration of tourist in search of mummies, gave us the final few pointers. So for fifty pesos or five bucks, we got to see this morbid collections of bodies. Instincts should have told me to stay away...far away, as I'd known about the Mexican holiday -Day of the Dead. I won't go into great detail but I think I will stick with more traditional holidays like Christmas and EasterTo top it off the busride down this hill could make a star attraction at any disneyland resort. Throw a couple of ghouls and goblins in for special effects. ....Alls I know is that Juan owes Barb and me a free espresso!!! ....All I know is that Juan owes Barb and me a free espresso!!! I will collect mine tomorrow.

Note: Excuse me for not putting a mummy picture here...I'm still trying to visually erase it from my conscious and not really sure why I even brought my camera in there...other than just a little morbid curiousity.

Earlier in the day we tried walking up the narrow bricked sidewalk towards the statue of El Pipila, a sixty foot tall statue that silently watches over the hill, but got turned around by a surly collection of dogs. Turns out, as we found out later, we zigged when we should have zagged. So before we left this magical city, we absolutely had to visit the majestic statue. Turns out there was this tramway that ran up the side of the hill. Fifteen pesos and a quick two minute ride, we were at the top of the hill...not quite. About another hundred steps and a hundred vendors we were at the base of El Pipila. The view from up here was iabsolutely incredible, as we could take in all the buildings and the surrounding hillsides. I could have sat up there for hours taking in all the sights but we had a bus to catch.

I could go on and on about this city describing this absolutely amazing place . It's a place that needs revisiting. As I get closer to my departure date, I feel guilty spending so much time in Puerta Vallarta, as it's left me hurried to take in as much as I can. To my friends I say, Mexico is a country to be experienced. It's given me a greater sense of who we are as a society, as a culture. The United States has a direct connection to Mexico, more than just the physical one. Though we are separated by a border and a language, we share many things in common. It's been said that America is a melting pot, and I would add that the Mexican cutural influences have added the spice. This is a place that has touched me in a way that I never thought I could be touched. I am a changed person because of it. Thank you Mexico....I will be back!!!

Here are some pictures from Paradise-
Guanajuato Pictures and a bit more