Tuesday, February 26, 2008

Back into the old routine

Just got back from Mexico and will write a bit about my adventures
with my 22 year old son - Matt
Update 12/09/2008 ....Adventures are brewing
(as I lookout my window at the snow). Stayed
tuned for...the future AdventuresWithBob.com

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Being back in the United States has made me a little lethargic...and anxious to travel more. Over the last several days I've been hanging out with my two sons - Matt 21 and Eric 19. It's been a neat experience, as I've been able to watch them as they go about their daily lives between school, work and hanging out with friends. I guess my big question is, when do these boys ever get a chance to study when they are always playing video games? I quess one needs a little down time and they are both excellent students. I will probably have to erase this once Eric sees it but oh well. Eric appears to have a girlfriend....and she's a real sweetheart!!! ...and Matt doesn't have one which I think is the first time since he was in first grade.

One thing I like about spending time in or around a univesity this large, is there is such a wide variety of ethnic restaurants. There are more Asian restaurants on one block than there are in all of Stevens County, with a few left over, and all light years better than the Mandarin Garden. Of course if you have eaten there, it's not an experience that's worth repeating. Sorry Thomas...nothing personal.

I'm going to end it here as I find myself describing what many would find much less an adventure and more of a journal of my daily routine. What I will promise to do in the not-to-distant future is to write a wrapup of the past forty days.

I think I've been bitten by the travel bug!!! and theres only one way to cure that...and that's for me to GET OUT AND SEE WORLD. What I would suggest doing is subscribe to the RSS feed found at the bottom of this page, and as I resume my travels, the daily blogs will come to your email, alerting you of my resumption of this blog.

I have had a wonderful time, in a large part, because of your participation on this adventure. It's my hope that I will be reading your blogs as you go out and see the world. Anytime you'd like help on setting up a blog such as this, or help posting/taking pictures, let me know. I'd be glad to help!!! Until the next time. Adios

Thursday, February 21, 2008

Day 40 - Is it possible

Wokeup this morning, of all things, with an VERY upset stomach. Could it be that Montezuma, had finally extracted his revenge after all the time. Was it the combination burrito, or maybe the chicken sandwich I had by the bus station the previous day in Guadalajara. I'm keeping my fingers crossed this ain't what I think it is.Several year back I ventured into the border town, of Ciudad de Juarez, just south of El Paso, Texas. I had heard the mantra. don't drink the water...don't drink the water....nobody said anything about drinking the ice tea. After about a week and a half, I decided to see a friend of mine, who happens to be a naturpath, and he gave me the cure. It's not a weight loss plan I would recommend.
The pictues above are the the line that wraps around me from the front of the checkin line to the back halfway down the terminal, looks like there is a mass exodus from Mexico. I best jump inline as the last thing I want, is to be stranded in Mexico...I think after five weeks, I'm ready to come home...if only for a week or two :). Home Bound...at last.

Update: Denver 6:33p.m. I've said this before but it bears repeating...I'm in this for the adventure. Denver is one big airport, almost as big as the Guadalajara Bus Station, and I swear I've walked every square inch, on all three levels. I guess if I get real bored I can go through the ten story parking garage.
After missing my flight yesterday in Puerta Vallarta, I was reissued a ticket today, guaranteeing a flight from PV to Denver, but a standby ticket for the return leg between Denver and Seattle. After claiming my bags at the carousel, walking to the Frontier ticketing counter, which felt like three miles, refusing to check my bags in, going through the secuity check WITH ALL OF MY LUGGAGE, and then being told that I probably wouldn't be able to check the flight tonight as they've overbooked. I don't wan't to sound like I'm whining, cuz nobody likes a whiner....but I think I'm ready to be home in Colville.

I will say one thing the TSA representative, the guys and girls that work the security, are one very understanding bunch. The bags that would normally be checked in, had to come through the scanner. Turns out the scissors I had in my shaving kit weren't long enough to be a security concern, but my bottle of Kahula...was. I'm sure I could be more of a threat with scissors than with a bottle of coffee flavor liquor. I wonder if I could have just drank it there. That wasn't one of the options they gave me. Next time I travel with Kahula, I'm going to travel with a quart of cream, just in case.
I'm trying to find a lesson here...something that I could pass on to my children or maybe to fellow travellers. I guess next time I'm going to tatoo, permanently, my flight itinerary on my forearm or maybe in reverse print on my forehead. It's a small price to insure my sanity. Not too long ago, I saw a movie with Tom Hanks, about a man that was stuck in an airport terminal in New York. I can only hope that I don't repeat any of the scenes from this great movie. I think I need a shave and maybe a shower, as there seems to be about a thirty foot buffer around me.

It looks like it's going to be a long night. I'd get a hotel, but based on my flight last month, I know getting anywhere near Denver is a fifty dollar taxi ride, each way. I love capitalism, especially the way it operates in an airport...five dollar beers, twenty dollar dinners, but I guess it's got Mexico beat.as you don't have to pay to use the restroom. I don't want to sound like a religious zealout, but I just looked up and saw a five dollar bill crumpled, on the floor...The Lord works in mysterious ways....I'm buying a beer...and now I'm looking for a twenty for dinner.

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Newsflash: Denver 8:32 MST
I may be on the next flight out of here thanks to a Frontier Counter Agent, who has given me hope! Throughout my forty day trip, all negative events always turned into something positive. I quess that's the power of positive thought. A thousand Thank you's Leslie. I know if I don't make this flight you did everything you could. Next time they confiscate my Kahlua I'll make sure they save it for you.

Update: 9:01 pm MST - I just got my boarding pass, Frontier Flight 837 Departing at 9:40, arriving Seattle 11:33.. thanks again to St. Leslie, the patron saint of wayward travellers. I'm starting to be my smiley old self once again. Until tomorrow. Sorry not much on pictures today, in fact everything I've taken is included in todays blog. An airport is pretty boring when it comes to photo ops...except for taking pictures wonderful people.

I boarded the plane, had an uneventful flight, and was met by my son Matt around midnight. I'm not sure how I feel about being back in the states. Part of me missed the routine that comes with living in community for as long as I have, the other part was thriving on the constant bombardment of the senses. I would hope to return someday soon.

I will continue to post until I return home. I quess I better find some entertaining things to do while in Seattle. Hope to heard back from Jason Webley about his friends only bash on Saturday. It would be perfect as I started my first day away from Colville, at the Jason and Reverend Peyton concert and would love to finish with the concert of Saturday night.

Day 39 - Full circle..plus some

As I mentioned in yesterday's bloggy thing, I arrived in Puerta Vallarta in the wee hours of Wednesday, under the light of a full moon. This was to be my last day i Mexico and I wanted to enjoy it. I contimplated many things from going to the Mayan Palace and floating the lazy river, toswimming in the ocean, to going to my favorite beach, Sayulita. But I wound up doing is going back to downtown Puerta Vallarta visting the malecon (the beachfront boardwalk) and doing a little last minute gift buying. Things hadn't changed much in my two week absence. Their was a large number of tourists downtown, mainly because there were two cruiseships in port. Speaking of cruiseships, I sat and watched as a cruiseship dock, it is a very impressive sight. They come in under their own power, and literally turn the boat around 180 degrees at the center axis in the middle of a small harbor and then back the boat into the dock. Fore and aft lines are then given to a small harobr tender boat, cleated, and then all 14 lines were winched in. Time seems to disappear here with the hustle and bustle of the street life.

I had gotten a message to Doug, my now Bucerius-rooted friend from home, that I would meet him at Larrys at 2 pm so I headed out on the local bus. I jumped on the first north-bound bus. This old bus was as rickety as any bus I'd ridden, including some pretty dilapated busses in San Miguel. I figured I'd share my experience by recording it on my cell phone. I was able to captured the rattling windows, the bone jarring bouncing, the flow of egressing and ingressing passengers and a little bit of what was happening on the sidewalks below. But the best part, totally unrehearsed, was a blind street musician boarded at one of the stops, using his white cane felt his way to empty seat. There he stood, with his back to an upright pole, and played a song on his guitar, while he sang the lyrics. I haven't had a chance to put the video on the blog, but that's on my list of things to do.

I arrived at the Mayan Resort about a half hour early and because I wasn't sure if Larry was still staying in the same room, I went to the pool, where I figured I would run into Larry's wife - Diane. Not only was she there, so were a couple from Salmon Arm B.C. We spent the next half hour playing catch-up, telling them of my adventures in middle of Mexico. It made me glad that I struck out on my own and ventured into the heart of Mexico. Turns out Larry was up in his room, so I took the quick elevator ride to the eighth floor, and filled him in on everything. Because Mike is a common friend, I made sure that I filled him in on everything. I'm not sure, but I think Larry missed me, as my adventures (and misadventures) kept him entertained for the whole three weeks I was PV bound. Never did see Doug, and I guess Larry never did after I left for San Miguel. In my emails with him, it sounds like he's having a great time at the beach and making new friends. Each of us came here for different reasons. Mine just happen to be REALLY different.

After taking a short nap, Larry and I were off to the bus stop. We were force to take taxi to the airport if I wanted to get to the airport on time. The bus that came was packed with some very large tourists. This might be a little insensitive, but I guess I can't leave without saying somethng. The tourists that I'd seen in PV during my three weeks in PV, especially the cruiseship types, are on average one hundred pounds over weight, and that's just he women...who knows about the men. As they Walk down the sidewalks, they waddle like ducks. Ok, got that off my chest.

Once at the airport, We unload my suitcase that had been at Larrys the last two weeks and I take a bus several miles to retrieve my backpack and computer case from the luggage check-in at the bus depot. Hopped a taxi and I was back in about twenty minutes. This is where things get a little...hmm...how should I say it...maybe a self fullfilling prophecesy. Turns out in my sleep deprived brain I mixed up the arrival time in Denver with the departure time in Puerta Vallarta. I quess deep down, I didn't want to leave Mexico quite yet. Oh well, one extra day in Mexico never hurt anyone. I try not to let the little stuff bother me and I'll be danged if this discourages me...as it's only a one hundred dollar mistake. Of course I'm not on a plane yet, so best not push it.

Larry and I go to our favorite taco stand across from the airport, and have a combination shrimp, marlin and octopus burrito, washed down with a corona. Larry headed off to the market for some grocery shopping and I on a taxi to my favorite motel - Hotel Jalisco, the place I spent my first three days. It was fitting this is where I started my stay in Puerta Vallarta and hopefully be where it's ending. I checked in, deposited my bags, went next door to the local corner grocery store and purchased my ritulistic can of Corona and headed to Sergio's cybercafe a few blocks away. It felt good to be in my old neighborhood. I think they missed me. as we shook hands, smiled and in our own languages conveyed, that it was good to see each other. I found my usual chair and desk and caught up on email and made a few phone calls. Tongight there was a big soccer game between a mexican team and one from South America. It was intereting, as this place is a local hangout, where groups of youths and adolescent men, would stop socialize, make a comment on the soccer game, and then disappear out the front door. I felt honored to be able to witness life such as this in a middle-class Mexican neighborhood. This is the Mexico that I will go home remembering. Soveneers are great but it's the memories of a culture, the day-to-day living, the sights, sounds and smells from the sidewalk, that I will remember the most. In my correspondance with others, I find that their is a misconception about Mexico and the Mexican People. I guess in a small way maybe I shared some of those unfounded ideas, but after five weeks here and two thousand miles of travel, I have a whole new opinion.

Mexicans are, in my opinion, extremely hard working, happy, devotedly religious, centered around community and especially. The elderly are well looked after, as are the children, though maybe just a bit spoiled. I don't know how many times I saw the fathers tending to their children, in a playful manner. I was able to silently observe at bus stations, town squares, local barios or neighborhoods, and other types of social settings. If you ever have the chance to visit Mexico, or any other country, even the different areas of the United States, get out, sit on a bench in a park and watch. Go to a grocery store, and yes even Wal-mart or McDonalds, and just watch. If you are like me, you will witness, humanity at it's finest, humblest roots. Take in a movie at a local theater, in the native language, hopefully with english subtitles. And if you are extremely adventorous, try talking to someone on the street. You may not be able express exactly what you'd intended, but you will learn something about humanity, as we all want to be able to communicate and more importantly, to be understood. Many times, I personally, had to be creative to get my point across, drawing on a piece of paper, pointing at something, or making an expression. Rarely did I ever have to walk away without being understood, and if so, a shrug of the shoulders seems to be a universal sign of surrender.

Till tomorrow...and my last day in Mexico...oops...said that before.

Tuesday, February 19, 2008

Day 38 On the BIG Bus

In less than 24 hours, I will be heading north on a Frontier flight, much sooner than I would like, but hey all good things got to come to an end....right? I been scouring the newspaper, praying for a Frontier airline mechanic strike, but as of yet, no luck. As I write this, I am sitting in a neighbor internet shop in Guadalajara. I have been here about an hour and have heard at least three separate incidents of what sounds like gunshots. I am not sure but I think there is a cop shop next door, if not the assorted ...duck...cop cars and trucks are there another purpose. I am getting really good at ducking under the computer desk. I had lots of practice in elementary school...Cuban Missile crisis and all. I can duck with the best of them. The locals unflinchingly look at me with a puzzled look...what does loco gringo mean?

The long haul first class busses absolutely rock, as I have mentioned before, with their cushy seats, men and women's bathrooms, hot and cold running water, changing room...and five movie screen placed strategically throughout the bus. My only complaint is that the in spanish with no subtitles. Funny things was there was just a bunch of gringos on the bus most of the way. I left at 12:45 pm arrived here about 6:15pm, fifteen minutes too late to catch the next bus out. Turns out the next bus out is at 11pm...a five hour layover. But you know what? I am ok with it as it gives me one more night in the streets of Mexico, which is been my most favorite part. The street life is absolutely incredible, it is like every night is Friday night, with vendors open until at least eleven with every block having at least two stands selling a wide variety of foods. The seem to love to eat out, even though I would not really call this eating out...more of a social event.

I am not sure why the mexican culture is so social, it might have something to do with the Catholic church being by far and away the most important social institution. Colville with it´s eighteen churches ...duck!!!...almost promotes a certain type of segregation. I know when I was growing up we only seemed to hang with catholic families..now i just seem to hang with heathens...sorry heathens...I mean it as a compliment.

One observation that I have made that I have not mention in previous postings, is that all the highways have crosses, I suspect where someone met an untimely death in an automobile. At one time, roads in Washington were also marked with crosses where fatalities had occured. Imagine my relief when I found out the yellow and black traffic signs actually indicated an intersection....I think it was when I was taking my drivers test that I realized that. For some...this should not come as a surprise.

Ok..this is unnerving.. As I typed about five paragraphs at another internet place, it shut down when my time was up and didn´t save anything. Probably wasn´t any good anyway and I quess that´s the universes way of telling me to rewrite it. So here goes again...wish me luck. Oh, quick tip, if you are working on a public computer I recommend saving your work every five minutes, or you could learn the hard way, like me! ...duck..

After spending about five hours in Guadalajara on the streets walking in not so good neighbor hoods, I was getting a bit hungry and decided to eat at one of the outdoor eateries. I had a chicken sandwich, which was great, peppers and all. As the bus was leaving in about twenty-five minutes I decided to check in earler. It´s a good thing I did as I got lost...in a bus station. I thought there were sections to the bus station based on my incoming trip....turns out there are about twelve sectons, I swear, spanning about a mile. I got there with plenty of time, but I was a little unnerved, as I always considered myself unable to get lost. Should have known...there were busses involved. After about an hours driving we finally got to the outskirts of Guadalajara. I don´t know if I mentioned it or not, but the population of this city is 4.5 milllion people...that´s like all of Western Washington. Once on the road I was able to get several hours sleep and felt rested when the bus arrived in PV at 4:3o. I should also mention, I woke up several times about two hours out of PV and the moon was shining brightly over the coastal mountain range and the open expansive valleys...it was very magical. And heres a little astronomical reminder, at least for here and hopefully home...the is a total lunar eclipse starting arount 9 and ending around 11...alsways fun to view.

Once at the bus station, I was actually able to get a little sleep in one of the lobby benches, hopefully I wasn´t drooling too bad. About 6 I headed to the airport to try to cash a travelers check and buy a cup of starbucks. I know...the coffee is terrible, but to be honest I haven´t had a good cup of strong coffee in weeks....so...anyway they weren´t open so off to PV I went..Best quit here as it´s already the next day...will write soon... Flight leaves for Denver at 8:10 and then off to Seattle the next day...Should be home in Colville late Monday...Oops...shouldn´t warn anyone I´m coming...could be a lynching party, as I´ve been getting alot of nasty e-mails from snowbound ex-friends....Ciao!!!

Will post pictures..most taken from the bus...tomorrow..and will let you know how the secound leg of the bus trip....duck!!
Link to Pictures
Hey Rochelle...save the apartment...I will be back!!!

Monday, February 18, 2008

Day 37 - Watch where you walk!

Everybodies been telling me where to go..Del Charco Del Ingenio, a botanical garden located in the hills east of San Miguel de Allende. Today, I finally listened and took the journey. Believe it or not, I had no bus misadventures , as I caught the bus in front of my home away from home, made it to the bus station, transferred, got off at the right place and walked the 2km to the front gate. I may be slow but once I figured it all out...I seem to get it right...ok..I'm pushing my luck!

This may seem to be a strange time to mention several things, but I took pictures just so that I wouldn´t remember. First thing is the many of the streets in Mexico. or at least the cities I've been to, are made with cobblestones or simply ...rocks. For many reasons, it just makes sense. Rocks are in abundance, durable beyond belief and can easily be laid (unlike me). The down side after about 2 minutes driving on them they typically rattle your filings out. I quess I can just be thankful this is not a standard road building practice in Colville, as we have dirt roads.

The other thing is the speedbumps in Mexico. They are everwhere, and I swear they are so tall you could high-center the biggest of 4x4 trucks on one. They can even be found on freeways, such as those in Puerta Vallarta. One friday afternoon there was what must have been a five mile backup behind a set of speed bumps. I'm thinking the 120 foot tall pyramids down below Mexico were actually speed bumps for spaceships and provided prime examples to later highway designers.

Ok...now that I got those two thing out of the way, lets continue with today's adventure. The gardens, I was told, aren't best viewed this time of year, as most of the trees and small shrub were sans folliage and flowers. But I quess its better to see bare trees and cactuses rather than none at all. Im glad I took the trip today, not only were there alot of things to see the scenary was absolutely spectacular. In addition to the flora, there was alot of fauna- well at least waterfoul in a resevoir backed up behind a 100 year old stone constructed dam. In additon there were great walking paths that went around the outside of the park Located in a deep canyon 100 foot canyoun was a deep pool of water, that was naturally fed by a spring that had a little ancient curse. I was tempted to hike down to the pool, but I think curse might have had something to do with those foolish people that attemted the deep descension to the pool below. The first step was a doosey.

As I came to the western edge of the park, the whole city of San Miguel opened up before me, providing the best view in the week that Id been there. How fitting for my last full day. At the edge of the precipice, was a wonderful two storey stone hacienda, complete with wrought iron window detail. a built in bench made of concrete and many other very interesting features.

Also in the park was a covered shade area that housed some of the most unusual cactuses that Id ever seen, some of them almost looking like some alien species of plant. It was quite a collection.
By now I´d spent the better part of two hours and walked what must have been four miles, not including the mile and half I´d walked in from the bus stop, and I was getting tired and a little hungry. I headed back around 430, grabbed one of the fruit cups. If I haven´t mentioned the fruit cups in my previous posting, I almost live on these things. Street vendors will cut up an assortment of fruits and veggies and put them in a plastic cup, sprinkle chili powder and some fresh squeezed lime. The contents can include watermelon, papaya, pineapple, cucumbers, jicama, cantaloupe and honeydew. It´s the perfect lunch!

I decided to sit in the Jardin one last time. As I was sitting there, I ran into someone that I´d talked to several times at Cafe Etc. Lisa, from San Diegao, has been in San Miguel for the better part of three months helping an acquaintance open an art gallery and was just winding down her stay in SMA. Turns out that I, in silver armor and riding a white stallion, arrived in the nick of time, as she was trying to configure skype (which I will mention a little later in this blog). If I´d come a little later, I probably could have gotten a great deal on a new Mac I-book, maybe with a little bit of cosmetic damage. Accompaning Lisa was the cutest yorkie - Charlie, who has a most interesting characteristic. I guess Yorkies are known for not having the best of teeth and sometimes they need to be pulled. Anyway Charlie had six teeth pulled and her tongue has a tendancy to spend much of its time outside her mouth, so shes always sticks her tongue out. Hence Charlie and Lisa make friends absolutely everyplace they go.

As we were sitting there working on Lisas computer an older couple sat down on the bench beside them. The man got a camera out and started to take a pictue of his wife, and I went into my automatic mode of offering to take a picture of the both of them, they graciously accepted. About that time a younger lady showed up, probably a daughter and got her camera out to take a picture. I immediately slid next to the man, put my arm around him, while the daughter took the picture. We had a great laugh. Turns out the three of them were from southern Spain. There spanish though similar to what I had been hearing the last month, but different as it almost sounded Italian. We must have talked for a half hour. Wonderful people!!!

As long as I mentioning people I better plug a gentleman that I met on my way to the Garden - Jake. He and his wife are from Toronto and just bought a home in SMA. He was waiting in the Jardin for a gentleman that was going to help him with his FM3 card, sort of like a green card for foreigners. He and his wife have been hob-nobbing with the local ex-pat aristocracy and at times felt he needed to embellish his past...not quite sure why, as he used to be the Prime-Minister of Canada...wink.. wink

Ok..back to Charlie and her owner, tonight being my last night I wanted to go out and celebrate. Charlie graciously accepted with a wag of her tongue and the three of us headed to a local watering hole that I visited last week. Turns out it was 2 for 1 and a couple of margaritas I was primed for my walk to the bus station and eventually to home. I had a very restless night in anticipation of my return trip to Puerta Vallarta. I was hoping for some sign that would tell me to extend my vacation, none came...so it looks like I am NW bound. But I will continue to look for the sign until the wheels lift off the airport in PV.

Adios...my time in Mexico appears to be coming to an end...

My last full day in SMA... here are the Pictures

Sunday, February 17, 2008

Day 36- Delores Hidalgo - Quite the woman?

I kept hearing about the town of Delores Hidalgo, and today was the day I was going to find out more about this town's namesake. Delores Hidalgo is located about thirty miles north of San Miguel on a widely traveled road. Many of the country roads are very similar the the roads that we drive everyday in Stevens County. Imagine Williams Lake road and you get a pretty good idea of the way the mexican roads curve or how they go uphill and down. But that's where the similarities end, as I'm not sure there is a speed limit and centerlines are for sissies. The bus I took north would straddle the line, pass on what appeared to be blind corners, and drive what felt like 70 miles an hour. I might of mentioned this before, but I've been on tamer rollercoasters at Silverwood. We finally made it to the outskirts of town where the driver drove at a more reasonable speed...I survived another busride...I notice that I'm starting to cross myself when I get off busses now. Must be the catholic in me.

Of all the towns I've had the opportunity to visit, this one seemed to be one of the busiest, where the sidewalk merchants spread out what must have been several miles. It was like they emptied all the goodwill and salvation army stores from hundreds of miles around, spreading the stores' contents out on the sidewalk and covering the goods with blue plastic tarps for shade. As I'd been seen before, Sunday is by far the busiest day in town, as many must leave from church and head off to the market.
Once I got of the bus, I began to look for the Jardin, the town square. It's become a pretty simple formula, just look for the tallest church spires, and you will find the town square. It worked exactly the same here, with a tall double spired church, a large treed park with black cast iron benches, complete with a center bandstand. But noticably absent, was the traveling Mariachi Bands, that I'd seen in the previous two towns I'd been in. They must have been given the day off.

My first order of business was to find the ice cream vendors. I was told by numerous people, that if I did anything, I had to have an ice cream cone. That was a pretty easy assignment, as there were about ten vendors, on all but one of the four corners. The hardest part was deciding which flavor to have. But my choice was instant once I saw it....TEQUILA! Ok, it sounds gross but you know what...It was awesome. I propose the tequila song was actually praising the ice cream rather than the drink. The ice cream was more like gelati, an ice cream-like confection made with milk, sugar and flavoring. My tequila flavored cone had more of a citrusy taste, like that of a lemon or orange. All I know is, mine went quickly. One last thing about cones, everyone had one. Young children, old grandmas, lovers on benches, tough looking cowboy types, all were enjoying their cones. Eat your heart out Baskin-Robbins!

I've been meaning to mention, and haven't in 35 days, about the camera that I've been using to take all the pictures you've seen here. I just use my camera phone, which takes a pretty decent picture, without alot of fuss. It's always convenient, either in my pocket or backpack, doesn't have any controls to fuss with, has almost unlimited photo storage capacity, and I can take a day's worth of pictures on one charge. The only down side is, the quality is probably not good for printing anything other than a 4 x 6 pictures and I don't have any zoom capability. But it's worked well for about 95% of the pictures I've taken. One last thing...it's easy to take pictures without being too obvious.

Ok, back to today's adventure. I spent about an hour in and around the park checking out all the touristy things, the church, the museums and other buildings. Maybe this would be as good as time as any for a little history lesson. I'm going to cheat just a little and quote something off the internet- just so I get the story right. Here goes...and if history class in high school made your cringe...feel free to fast forward. Basically it's this...In the square that I was standing, the Mexican independance movement started.

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The laid back atmosphere of present-day Dolores Hidalgo is a far cry from the morning of "The Cry" that signaled the start of the country's independence from Spain. On that Sunday in 1810, the town (then known as just Dolores), was swarming with church-going Indians and peasant farmers. Father Hildalgo roused them and criollos (people of Spanish descent born in Mexico) to rise against the gachupines (the ruling class, born in Spain). He urged the crowd to follow him into battle. It wasn't a prepared, written speech, so no one is certain exactly what Hidalgo said, but he probably included phrases such as "long live freedom." The scene is reenacted yearly on September 15 throughout Mexico.

After "The Cry," Miguel Hidalgo (he wasn't an active priest at the time he led the revolution) and his countrymen marched 20 miles to San Miguel el Grande (now San Miguel de Allende), to join the forces of criollo military general, Ignacio Allende. About 1,000 troops strong, they marched toward Guanajuato (which is now the state capital). Within a week, their ranks swelled to 25,000 and ultimately to 80,000. Yet, it took another 11 years, and much bloodshed on both sides, before Mexico achieved independence from Spain
.

Quoted from Dolores Hidalgo: Mexico's Cradle of Independence - An article by Geri Anderson in Mexico Connect
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Ok, that wasn't so bad was it. Back to adventures in Delores Hildalgo. I heard much about the ceramic shops here so I set out in search of them I took a shor tcut across about ten blocks to the main street that the bus had taken and found over a mile of ceramic shops of all sizes on both sides of the streets. Delores Hildago is noted for it's brightly colored ceramics. For sale here were all kinds of brightly colored crafts - ranging from kitchen sinks, to geckos and frogs, planters and clocks, kitchen knick-knacks and picture frames, and what must have been literally thousands of other items. On my next trip I'm coming down with a semi-truck and bringing back loads of gifts for my friends...promise!

All this walking was making me hungry and decided to search out a seafood restaurant that got good reviews in the Lonely Planet. The El Delfin or The Dolfin in English, is a nice bright airy restaurant located about a block from the town square. A seafood menu in only printed in Spanish can be a dangerous thing, especially in my hands. What I ordered and what swam to my table were two entirely different things. I should have done what I've done in similar situation, pointed at what someone else was eating, it worked well in Vancouver's Chinatown. I thought I was getting a sea bass filet...turns out it was the whole sea bass, tail, fins, head complete with eyeballs. My motto is...your food should never be looking back at you. I swear my fish blinked just as I was picking up my fork...must have been the tequila ice cream!


As I'm putting titles on the pictures I took today, I came across one of a policeman directing traffic. It remeinded me of the unique, almost birdlike sounds, that each traffic cops whistles make as they stand out in the middle of the intersection, directing the flow of traffic. On several occasions, I almost began looking for the bird that made this most unusual sound. And another thing, I don'r recall seeing any traffic lights in Delores Hidalgo. Maybe they could use a couple of Colville's roundabouts.


Well I finally left Delores Hildago for home and I must say the bus trip back was much less interesting than the inbound one...thank goodness. Once home I spent much of the evening just getting caught up on email, updating the blog and making a few phone calls to people at home. Monday more than likely will be my last day in San Miguel de Allende. I will miss this place, but I know that I will be back.


Here are some pictures taken today


Hasta Manyana amigos - Roberto

Day 35- An American Ex-Pats Life

After the whirlwind adventure in Guanajuato, a down day was in order. So when Nina and Paul invited Magali, Mike and myself to a potluck, I didn't have to think twice to accept the offer. So around noon we took off by bus. My luck with busses has been spotty at best, and this trip was going to be one of those misadventures. Mike and Migalia, if you're reading this, I take all the blame. I was getting a little over confident in my ability, a skill I think I perfected at horsetracks as I could always pick the fourth place horse. I'd like to place a vente peso bet on the number cinco bus to show. Lost again!!! Again ...thank god for the taxi system.

Mike had gotten directions from Paul based on the bus ride. We were to get off at the end of the line, walk through a green gate and their house was in the middle. Coming in by taxi made it a bit more difficult but after a half hour of perserverance, we prevailed. Paul, and the three neighbor dogs were there to greet us. Mexican dogs are different, I'm not sure why, but I usually don't come that close to being bitten. I guess next time I come down here I will need to learn a few spanish phrases to placate the dogs.

Nina and Paul are probably the most accomodating hosts that I ever met. They gave us a tour through their year old adobe hacienda. I don't get overly excited about houses but this place was absolutely incredible. I've always like natural building materials and their home used a tasteful combination of tile, open beamed ceilings, built in cabinets made from bricks and adobe. They had wrought iron framed windows throughout the house, offering plenty of light. Much of the mexican lifestyle revolves around living outdoors and their home had amble outdoor spaces on all four corners of the home. I'm not in the business of repeating the financial details but I was absolutely floored on what it cost them to have this house custom built. As laborers only typically make ten dollars a day, you can to alot, for not alot of pesos.

Nina, the same women that took me shopping in the open market, is an incredible cook. She started dinner with an eggdrop zuchinni soup. For a main course she made a pasta from scratch and a sauce using fresh tomatoes from the market, cream, olive oil and a hint of spices. Absolutely wonderful. To top it off she made a pound cake that I had the previous week at Mikes. Thanks Nina and Paul for a wonderful day!!!

About sunset, Paul escorted us back to the bus stop. The bus must have travelled five miles through mexican neighborhoods on the east side of San Miguel. The ride was a great way to see how mexican families spend Saturday night. It's absolutely amazing to see much of the mexican nightlife is on the sidewalks. It doesn't really matter what time it is there is someone selling something, whether it be tacos or burittos, hamburguesa and papas or chicklettes, often until midnight.

I did do one thing that I regret. It was a culturally insensitive faux-pas and I knew better. A young girl of about five approaced the three of us, selling some kind of candy. I asked her "quanto questa", how much? Her answer was "tres para cinco pesos" three for five pesos. I gave her five pesos and promptly recieved three packages of gum. I then without thinking took out my camera and took a picture of her. Just as I was doing that , a young mexican man passed behind me saying something about me being a jerk. It turns out behind the young girl was an old lady, probably a grandmother, with her face covered with a dark shawl, her back against the adobe wall. It turns out that street people are sensitive to having their pictures taken. I know that no one will read this, but I am sorry if anyone was offended and vow never to do this again. I deleted the picture.

Tomorrow I begin my journey back to Puerta Vallarta, in preparaton for return flight to Seattle on Wednesday. I'm debating on taking a different route, through Ziwataneo, on the Pacific Coast, about two hundred miles south of Puerta Vallarta.

Not a great picturesque day..but pictures non the less

Till tomorrow...Bob

Saturday, February 16, 2008

Day 34 - Guanajuato - A day in Paradise

I've been hearing alot about a town about an hour's bus ride west of here called Guanajuato (wan-a-wa-toe) and figured maybe today was the day to check it out. The night before I'd asked Barb, a lady that I met several days earlier, if she'd like to join me, as she'd never been to Guanajuato either. She agreed and we headed out early for the main bus depot. Having been been spoiled on the Premiera Plus on my trip here from Puerta Vallarta, we decided to travel in luxury, at least heading west. It was nice traveling in the daylight, as I missed about the last fifteen miles of scenary into San Miguel. Looking back to the east this is a very pictureque city nestled in the foothills of the mountains.

After about an hours busride we arrived into what I thought was Guanajuato, based on my trip through there a week ago. Turns out we needed to jump on another bus to Centro, or the center of town. This bus was a new low in busdom, with plastic seats, rickety suspension that felt every imprefection in the road, but was able to climb the long pull up hill with breakneck speed. I'd heard this town was built over abandoned mine tunnels, but was unprepared for the maze, as these tunnels were everywhere. It was also quite impressive in the way it reduced much of the surface traffic found in my cities the size of 80,000 residents. I would be negligent if I didn't mention the small child that I saw sitting in the front seat, on what was probably his grandmothers lap. He was probably the cutest child I've ever seen, with his overly expressive big brown eyes, and brown hair that just covered his eyebrows. The picture that I took really doesn't capture him the way I wanted, as he kept on looking a way everytime I tried to take his picture.

After about fifteen minutes we finally make it to the what look like the center of town. The jardin, or town square was several blocks away. In each of the Mexican cities that I have visited over the last four weeks, each of them had a square where there would be center stage surrounded by trees and large open courtyard. This one in Guanajuato topped all others with it's fountains, beautifully colored flowers and the natural canopy provided manicured trees. Around the edges were restaurants and assorted businesses. This was a special place. On the southern edge of the square was the Tietro Juarez, an ornately decorated theater. I was told later that I should have gone inside, as it was elaborately decorated with wood inlays from around the world. Next time!

One thing different about this town than all the others that I'd been to was there was a youthful vibrancy. Turns out in this city of 80,000 there is a university known for it's theater and arts program with 21,000 students. I would have loved to stayed later into the evening to see the youthful activity, but as it was we took the last bus out.

I think the most striking thing in Guanajuato was the colorful homes and businesses that clung to the bowl-shaped hillside. Every color of the rainbow was represented here. I'm sure this town would be every artist's dream, as no paint tubes would be left unused.

Every town has a mercado, and this town would be no different. But what we did find different here, outside this large two-storied building, were large trucks and generators with an assortment of large cables running out of them, through the market's front doors. Upon further investigation, we found they were filming a movie here, complete with bright lights, a large expensive-looking camera on tracks and people with headsets, standing around everywhere. At the center of all this attention. were two small children with a piggy bank, standing in front of a market booth, being coached by a director. I doubt that I will ever see this movie, as it appears everythig was in Spanish. But from what I've learnt before...never say never.

Before I left, I ask Juan, the owner of Cafe Etc if I could only see one thing in Guanajuato, what would it be? Without hesitation he said the Museo de las momias or the museum of the mummies. So after a very long walk up a very steep hill guided first by big signs pointing the way, and then by hand painted signs on the sides of buildings and finally by locals, who must have gotten conditioned to the migration of tourist in search of mummies, gave us the final few pointers. So for fifty pesos or five bucks, we got to see this morbid collections of bodies. Instincts should have told me to stay away...far away, as I'd known about the Mexican holiday -Day of the Dead. I won't go into great detail but I think I will stick with more traditional holidays like Christmas and EasterTo top it off the busride down this hill could make a star attraction at any disneyland resort. Throw a couple of ghouls and goblins in for special effects. ....Alls I know is that Juan owes Barb and me a free espresso!!! ....All I know is that Juan owes Barb and me a free espresso!!! I will collect mine tomorrow.

Note: Excuse me for not putting a mummy picture here...I'm still trying to visually erase it from my conscious and not really sure why I even brought my camera in there...other than just a little morbid curiousity.

Earlier in the day we tried walking up the narrow bricked sidewalk towards the statue of El Pipila, a sixty foot tall statue that silently watches over the hill, but got turned around by a surly collection of dogs. Turns out, as we found out later, we zigged when we should have zagged. So before we left this magical city, we absolutely had to visit the majestic statue. Turns out there was this tramway that ran up the side of the hill. Fifteen pesos and a quick two minute ride, we were at the top of the hill...not quite. About another hundred steps and a hundred vendors we were at the base of El Pipila. The view from up here was iabsolutely incredible, as we could take in all the buildings and the surrounding hillsides. I could have sat up there for hours taking in all the sights but we had a bus to catch.

I could go on and on about this city describing this absolutely amazing place . It's a place that needs revisiting. As I get closer to my departure date, I feel guilty spending so much time in Puerta Vallarta, as it's left me hurried to take in as much as I can. To my friends I say, Mexico is a country to be experienced. It's given me a greater sense of who we are as a society, as a culture. The United States has a direct connection to Mexico, more than just the physical one. Though we are separated by a border and a language, we share many things in common. It's been said that America is a melting pot, and I would add that the Mexican cutural influences have added the spice. This is a place that has touched me in a way that I never thought I could be touched. I am a changed person because of it. Thank you Mexico....I will be back!!!

Here are some pictures from Paradise-
Guanajuato Pictures and a bit more

Thursday, February 14, 2008

Day 33 - Won't you be my Valentine?

It's Valentines Day...and I don't have a sweetheart. Too bad nobody feels sorry for me. On the bright side Magali gave me a heart-shaped sucker this morning, so at least I feel a bit better. So rather than being depressed, Mike and I headed into town early afternoon. Waiting at the bus stop, we met Mike's neighbor Larry, a retired bankruptcy attorney from Florida. Once we got into town he treated us to a taxi ride into our favorite hangout- Cafe Etc. We must have talked for the better part of two hours about a variety of topics. I think I might have got a job out of this building a website for the sale of his hacienda. While there Paul, my favorite American Ex-pat dropped in and added to a already wonderful conversation.

Mike and I excused ourselfs around 3:30 and did some shopping at the downtown Mercado. This was the market I tried to find earlier in the week. There is some absolutely wonderful crafts here. Several booths had brightly covered ceramics from Delores Hidalgo, a small town about twenty miles north of where I'm staying. Wonderful men and women's cotton shirts, woolen blankets and handicrafts and many other wearable goods were found thoughout. Most things here are probably a third the cost you'd find in the states. I bought a few gifts and Mike bought a few groceries and we were off.

While we were at Cafe Etc, Paul invited Mike and myself out for a drink at one of the local watering holes. So we decided to see if Barbara was at the hostel across from Cafe Etc. She was and she readily agreed to join us. We met up with Paul and Nina outside the restaurant, but Nina wasn't feeling well, so just Barbara, Mike and myself went inside. Being that it was Valentine's
Day there was a certain festivity in the air. Strolling musicians were entertaining and we decided to have them play a song for us. I love the song they played but not speaking spanish I'm not sure what the title was. It's either "One Ton Romero" or maybe "Won Ton Romero". So maybe it was a song about a very large Mexican man who immigrated from China....or not! Anyway it was very entertaining. After we finished our drinks we agreed to head back to the town center and watch the tourists and townsfolk.

Mike told me there are about 200 celibrations in San Miguel de Allende. I don't know if Valentines day is one of those but the town center was as lively as I'd ever seen it. The place was packed with teens and the elderly, mariachi bands and of course, tourists. It was pretty magical. After about an hour, we walked Barbara back to her place and Mike and I beelined for the bus station. We went up to the window to buy our ticket home and the agent said something that Mike fortunately understood. Next second we were racing out the door chasing a bus down. The driver reluctantly let us on and soon we were home.

Another magical day in San Miguel de Allende. Today I'm heading to Guanajuato to do a little sightseeing. I've uploaded the pictures but for some reason the titles were all screwy. I will fix them later.

Here is a link to the Pictures from today

Wednesday, February 13, 2008

Day 32 - Catching up

This has been a real down day. I decided to catch up on some things and stay close to the nest. One of chores was to get more pictures online using Picassa and web albums. It's a fairly easy process but with 130+ pictures it's a bit of a task. As time allows I will continue to move the blog from http://bob.ravet.googlepages.com/adventureswithbob to http://www.adventureswithbob.com/ have about 23 more days of daily postings to move and probably 300 to 400 pictures...but hey..you guys and girls are worth it!!!

Might not even post anything other than this on the blog unless something important happens...its 7pm...and it looks unlikely. Did help Mike with setting up some recording software. I wish he'd cut another album as it's been over 10 years since he did the first one. Oh...and washed some clothes and hung them up on the clothesline...they dry in about an hour. Ok...thats enough.
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Maybe today would be a good day to reflect on some of my observations.
Here they are in no particular order:

On public bathrooms - Almost all bathrooms here are pay-to-use unless they're in a restaurant or large department store. If you are easily grosssed out...step away now. No toilet papers is to be flushed down the toilet if there is a waste basket next to it. Undoing 54 years of habit is near impossible, but I'm making small gains.

On the bus system in general - in a previous life's this guys (I never saw a women busdriver nor has anyone else) were all gladiators in the roman empire. Their ruthless, agressive driving is better than any amusement ride. Lines are merely suggestion, as are speed limits. I also recommend they put a seat cushion on the steering wheels, as most the time they are sitting on the horn...must get bonus points this way!!! The other thing that really bothers me, they all have gigantic, large as life, crucifixes somewhere nailed near to the window, probably in the line of vision, that must act as some unseen insurance policy.

More on buses in Mexico -
there are no maps or time tables, no speed limits or rules, all tourists are fare game, where bonus points can be made by dropping them as far away from their intended destination as humanly possible, and I know for a fact they all speak perfect english, but never around americans.

On the dogs of Mexico - never in my life have I ever seen such ragtag assortment of critters. But the strange thing is, they all look like they've been eating well, even the ones that I've seen on the roofs of many houses. Not sure how a rotwieller or a german shepherd on a roof is going to prevent a burglary, unless they have great leaping power. And in the land of Chihuahua's I've only seen several...always wearing a nice cutesy-wootsy sweater. How absolutey charming...and riduculous. Of course I'm a little jaded as I've been only been bitten twice by dogs , once by a Chihuahua with an attitude and another I'm had a little Chihuahua blood in it, just the right enough amount to make it rabid.

Those that know me, know I have an opinion about absolutely everything. Now, here's your chance to find out what my opinion is about anything having to do with Mexico. I'm far from being an authority, but that's never stopped me before. Be sure to post your question under the comment section. I will be sure to get back to you right away. As soon as I finish that last bootle of Corona!

Until tomorrow!!!

Day 31 - San Miguel de Allende - Settling In

I'm at a point where I feel comfortable here, as I think I finally figured out the bus system, which busses to take in and most importantly how to get home at night. The big trick was knowing where to catch the bus at night. Though I did have a bit of an incident today, I quickly recovered. More about that later.

I spent a bit of my morning cleaning up the blog, adding a few new features such as the Spanish word of the day and a google gadget that translates between various languages. This little tool has come in handy. I finally break free, and head for the bus about 10am. About the time I arrive at the busstop another bus heading north stops across the street, a gentleman with a clipboard gets off, walks across the street. Was this someone from immigration? Turns out he works for the bus company and just rides around throughout the day, making sure that drivers aren't pocketing the busfare.
We try to strike up a conversation, my spanish is as bad as his english. I bring out a notepad to try to draw things to explain that I am flying out of Puerto Vallarta on February 20th. One thing worse than my spanish is my ability to draw. Oh well...it's too late to learn! The picture to the right is a visual testament to the severe artistic disfunction. also the bus ticket stub, stamped by the bus inspector.

Last night Nina invited me to the Tuesday Market, a ten city block shopping extravaganza. It is mostly attended by locals in a very out of the way location and has every imaginable thing for sale. I, being a bargain hunter, was in shopper's paradise. The downside of this I could have filled up the back end of several trucks with great finds, but only had a backpack's worth of room. Probably a good thing.

Getting there was half the fun, as the directions I got the night before were a little cloudy. Turns out the place that I had the two margaritas, is known for STRONG drinks. So between a less than perfect recollection and a few key words on the back of a bar napkin, I had to find the RIGHT bus, going in the RIGHT direction, and the RIGHT busstop...oh and I had to ask in the RIGHT spanish. As you can well surmise...I was doomed!!! In my case, the inabilty to manifest four RIGHTS made one big WRONG!!! and hey how was I to know the G in Gigante is pronouced like an H. I do now!

So anyway I get on a bus that says Gigante, hand the bus driver my four pesos and I'm on my way. So I thought. We drive about fifteen blocks, the bus stops. Noone gets off. My first clue. The bus drive drives another five blocks, stops. Noone gets off. Again he drives about five blocks, stops, turns around and looks directly at me and points to the door. With no choice other than to get off, I oblige. Back to square one. Ok. But now at least I'm close to Cafe Etc and I know my good amigo, Juan, will help me out. I quess he sort of did, but I think he too had enough of me by the time I left. At least he didn't point to the door. Too late to make a long story short....but...just know that I took a taxi.

Unlike all the other taxi stories in my misadventures in mexico blog, this one actually has a happy ending, as not only did I get a get to keep an arm and a leg, I got a Spanish lesson and delivered to the right place, on time! If you ever find yourself in SMA, give Mario a call at 415-115-8775. I quess another way to look at it you could get spanish lessons for ten bucks an hour and a tour of the city. I think by the time he dropped me off, his English might have been just a bit better as well. I know one thing, as soon as I get back I'm going to schedule some Spanish lessons with Julian Bond, a Colville resident, who was born in Mazatlan. Maybe I can trade some of my computer experience.

Sorry about bouncing around...back to the market. This open-air market is located on a major north-south highway heading to Mexico City, but it's hidden about four blocks off the highway, invisible to the passing cars...and as far as I could tell, there was no signage. Had Nina not invited me, I would have had no way of knowing about it. Rather than writing alot about it just read this link- Tuesday Market, If I ever find mysef for any prolonged time, this will be a weekly tradition. Oops..I would have been negligent had I not mentioned Nina's Mexican friend from her church who runs a small Taco Stand in the market. It's a family run operation where dad works with both his son and daughter. Great people with very authentic smiles. I think the food could have been awful (it wasn't) and I would have loved every minute of my time at their taco stand. The had two kinds of tacos, one made of beans, the other potatoes. These were a different kind of taco than what I was used to at home. They were prepared in advance, made with corn tortillas filled with the beans or potatoes mixture, folded over and steamed, served with a cabbage slaw and a fiery salsa. Yumm!!!

Back to town I go to meet up with Mike and Magali at Cafe Etc for a quick coffee and we all go our separate ways in the afternoon, leaving me with more time to fill. I go to a small cafe for lunch, have a chile relleno, rice and beans. The beans were a bit salty, otherwise everything else was great. I decided to see what was happening at the library across the street, and run into Barbara, a lady that I'd met several days earlier at Cafe Etc.

Barbara is from Victoria BC, but orginally born in Polland immigrating to Canada as a youngster. It turns out she's quite the world traveller, with a 32 foot sailboat moored in Greece. She spends a good portion of the year sailing around in the Mediterranian. I'm thinking I've mentioned her before as I didn't know spell the word "Mediterranian" and obviously don't still don't and now I'm too lazy to look it up. Earlier in the day I'd seen that the movie "Bucket List" was playing at brand new 8-plex Cinema by Gigante and heard from a few locals that it was a great movie (they didn't like the ending they said), so I invited Barbara. Turns out that since she'd been here, she hadn't got out of the downtown core and was looking for an opportunity to see something different, so must have been desparate when she agreed. We took a taxi to the theater, bought the tickets and a box of popcorn, and were seated just as the trailers begun.

A little about the movie "The Bucket List" starring two of my favorite actors - Morgan Freeman and Jack Nicholson. Two elderly gentleman - one from a simple background, the other, the wealthy owner of a Hospital, wind up sharing a room after surgery. The character played by Morgan Freeman, writes a list of things he would like to do before kicking the bucket. Basically the movie follows them as they fullfil this list. It was an enjoyable movie...check it out!!!

We take a bus back to the center of town, stop by a little sidewalk cafe in the town for a glass of red wine, flan (great combination) and conversation. It was great break from my usual routine. I walk her back to the hostel that she's been staying at and then the long walk to the big bus station. I'm not sure why there was a bus that left at 10:30, because there is a 10 and 11 bus, all I know was that I was home safe by 11...I feel like I'm settling in...this will be a very hard place to leave.
Adios amigos

Wonderful pictures taken today

Monday, February 11, 2008

Day 30- A Night on the Town

The day will come, and all too soon, to where I will have to leave this special place on earth called San Miguel de Allende. It's a magical place, full of history and mystique, energy and vitality, like none other I've personally experienced. I will miss this place and all the special people I've met. But I have made a promise to myself... I shall return!

With that said, I spent the morning catching up on e-mail, adding a little spice to this blog and chatting with Mike and Maggie. Then it was time to catch the bus into town. I've finally got to the point to where I am comfortable with the transportation in SMA, especially after having to take a 100 peso taxi ride my first night. It turns out the bus runs until midnight, as long as you catch it at the main bus terminal about a mile and half from the center of town. A little after 2pm I jumped on the bus to meet several people at Cafe Etc, my home away from home. Juan, the owner of the restaurant, is sort of a no nonsense kind of guy. He definitely does business on his terms and I quess that's all I'll say about that.

Paul and Nina invited me to join them for a late afternoon drink at their favorite hideaway, the rooftop lounge of a local establishment. It was a nice comfortable evening as the sun was just beginning to set. From this vantage point, the city opened up to a great view of all the surrounding buildings...great scenary...and conversation. As usual, the time just slips away and it was time to head for home. I walk the mile and half to the main bus station. It turns out the bus had just left and I would have to wait an hour and forty-five minutes for the next one. The great thing is...I'm never in a hurry and it was great just watching everything around me. Turns out another electrical storm was on it's way and I had a front row seat. Since I wasn't in a hurry I decided to have a hamburguesa at a local outdoor makeshift stand outside the bus terminal. It had to be the best hamburger I'd had in a very long time. I quess what made it special was the grilled onions, peppers, carrots and diced tomatoes...and some type of special sauce. As I sat on a wooden barstool under a blue plastic tarp eating, a storm raged all around us...lightning, thunder, wind...and lots of rain. But as quickly as it started...it ended.

A burger so good, deserved a beer, which I drank under the cover of the bus shelter. It's a different kind of world here, as it's ok to drink beer anywhere..in the open. But in all my travels I've only seen two people drunk in public, one-a man, on the streets in downtown Puerta Vallarta and the other, an elderly lady from the states, who had actually tripped and fallen into the grass. It seems the more we try to regulate or prohibit something, the bigger the problem it becomes. I enjoy Mexico for all the freedoms it has.

The other thing that I will mention, is that with the high price of fuel in the U.S. you'd think we would have access to these smaller cars I've seen here in Mexico. I'm sure many of them get 40 to 50 miles per gallon. These compact cars are made by GM, Mercedes, Peugot, VW, The Smart Car and others. Why are these not made available to us in the states? Ok..off the soapbox.

Well not much else to report. Till tomorrow!!!

iGoogle Link

Here's a link to the homepage that I use:
iGoogle
It's great because you can customize it with 100's of different gadgets. Also you can have different tabbed homepages based on your interests. I have often been referred to as the google poster boy, as I used to write a series of tech tip for a monthly regional and about every other article was about google. That all changed when I happened to be down in Mountain View California and stopped by their mammouth headquarters and couldn't get a single soveneer. They told me to go online...pfffttt!!!

Sunday, February 10, 2008

Day 29 - Hangin' wit my homies.

Sort of a strange day, or should I strange night, in that there was a couple of bands playing at Atotonilco about a half mile away. The music played until at least three a.m., followed by what sounded like mortar fire for the next several hours. And if that was not enough, a Catholic mass was being performed over a mega speaker system interspersed with a cacophony of clanging church bells...all this before six in the morning. In fact it was so loud, and relentless, rather than trying to ignore it, I opened my door to the patio. Figured if you can't beat, join 'em...The final chorus consisted of crowing roosters, barking dogs and cooing doves.

At about seven, I couldn't stand it any longer, I had to see what all the ruckus was aboutl I got dressed in my Sunday's finest (ok...it was only jeans and a polo shirt) and off I went to town. I was mildly disappointed by what I saw. I expected to see smoldering ruins of the old church, drunken townspeople...and maybe a few deafened dogs laying in the street, but instead found merchants readying booths for todays market. I quess I'd just have to come back later...and that's what Magali (I'm now forced to call her Maggie because I've had the most difficult time pronoucing her name), Mike and myself do mid-afternoon.


By this time the market is packed with vendors of all kinds of religious ware, pottery, wooden chairs, and assorted trinkets and then interspersed with food booth. All of my vegetarian friends might want to quit reading.....now!
~~~~~~~ 1 potato
~~~~~~~ 2 potato
~~~~~~~ 3 potato
~~~~~~~ 4 potato
~~~~~~~ more!!!

I had a bowl of menudo. If you don't know what it is, let the curousity go, if you do know, I apologize. I think the last time I had a bowl of this traditional mexican New Year's soup was January 1, 1980 at a restaurant on White Pass Washington. It may be another twenty-eight years before I sit down to another bowl of menudo. I must say I'd did enjoy the spiciness of this chili based soup. Thanks to Richard Taylor and his incendiary five-alarm pickled peppers that prepared me for this day.

Ok vegies..you can continue reading from here - sorry Bob if you're reading this. Hopefully you're still talking to me when I get back.

I also revisited the inside of the church and took a few more pictures. Today, I felt just a bit awkward as there were a handful of people either sitting in the pews or genuflecting on old tatered leather-bound kneelers...brings back some haunting memories from my childhood...torture at it's finest!!!

Heading back the three of us had a leisurely stroll back to the casita. Mike has invited some friends from town over for a potluck dinner. Should be an enjoyable evening. John and Nina just left for home. What an enjoyable couple! They are both teachers from the upper N.E. United States, who between the two of them could fill a shelf full of books with their personal stories. The bad thing is the night just went by way to quickly. I seem to spend more time in SMA talking to people than sight seeing....and I guess that's not a bad thing when the company is as great as it is here.

Just as the early morning start with a bang, the late night did as well, though the evening's entertainment was provided by none other than Mother Nature. A nice electric storm came in just about the time the sun set and lasted well into the night....BRAVO!!!

A little sidenote
Just received a picture from my daughter, Kelly, showing the piled up snow at home...eek!!!

How do you say "I hate snow" in Spanish?
They don't ...cuz it don't snow here!!!

I should hide these Pictures taken today
Buenos noches - Roberto

Saturday, February 9, 2008

Day 28 - An afternoon in SMA

With Mike having Saturday off, we decided to take a late morning bus into San Miguel de Allende. One of the things that I find curious is that there are a number of bus systems all servicing the same area, each with a different fare system. Quite often the same route will be twice as much on another system. This morning for 6 pesos (or 60 cents) we catch one of the nicer busses heading into SMA. This particular bus took us directly to the large bus terminal, from where we had to take a city bus to the center of town.

The first order of business was to cash a travelers check. Turns out that there is a difference, though not substantial, exhange rate. After looking around comparing the "buy" rates, I finally see one that is higher than the rest. After signing it, I give it to the cashier, she informs the rate on American Express Travelers Checks is a not 10.70 pesos to the dollar, but instead, 10.30. Oh well, it's not alot of money. The world of high finance!!!

Mike spent the better part of an hour showing me around the center of town. I thought I'd seen most everything but it appears there was a whole segment of town, the northeast corner, that I'd somehow overlooked. Will have to come back next week and explore a little closer.

We then went over to Cafe Etc. I'm beginning to love this place, just for the simple fact, it's where a large portion of the English speaking tourists and ex-pats hang out. If only my Spanish was better and I wouldn't feel this way, but for now I find a connection here. Mike brought along his twelve string guitar and an assortment of his native flutes, and plays to about a dozen people sitting at tables scattered about. I've always enjoyed Mike's flute playing, remembering back to the first time I heard him at a makeshift stage in front of the Colville Chamber of Commerce, what must have been 10 years ago. I must sound like a broken record to Mike, as I encourage him once more to promote his music more aggresively. We still listen to his music at home, it has a soothing quality to it.

While there, a lady asks to sit at a vacant chair at our table. It turns out Barbara, is a Canadian, had just arrived several days earlier after two long days of planning her escape from the dreary Victoria's blustery winter weather. She ask to take several pictures and to also record Mike as he is playing. Turns out she is a published writer and is here on vacation. Barbara gives both Mike and I a business card with her website. Turns out this woman has been sailing, often single-handedly, around the world and her 32 foot sailboat is moored in the Mediterranean Sea. She has quite the impressive biography!!!

After spending about two hours, we all part ways, Mike to the market, me off on another one of my adventures. This time I take off on a slightly different route, in search of the mercado, or public market, that Mike showed me earlier in the day. I must have walked a mile but could not find the market that typically is frequented more by the locals, than the tourist. Another day I quess. I decided to see what activity was taking place down at the Parque de Juarez. Earlier in the week the Candalaria, or garden show, was taking place. Today there must have been ten times as many people there, selecting wonderful plants for their home gardens. Wheelbarrow were everywhere, some empty, some filled to the brim with gorgeous plants of all shapes and colors. I'd hope to have watched a ballet presentation that was to have taken place at 6pm, but the weather was looking like it could rain anytime.

I headed back to the town center, just as a wedding was finishing up. A band of about twelve smartly dressed musicians were playing at the edge of the church. I've always enjoyed the music of a marachi bands, as they are so lively. But it was really getting time to head back to the hacienda, as I could see rain squalls in the distant hills...and me without a coat. I quickly walk down to the big bus station about a mile away, catch one of the nicer busses to El Cortijo and five minutes later I'm headin' for home.

Spent the evening Mike and Magali watching the old version of the Manchurian Candidate with Frank Sinatra. Must also mention that Migali makes the best carrot bread in the world. She must think I never eat!!!

Images from today

Adios- Roberto

Day 26 - Bob in Wonderland - Wednesday, February 6th

Day 26 - Bob in Wonderland
Wednesday, February 6th

After a night of trying to stay warm by making sure that no part of my body was exposed to the cool night air, I woke to the sound of the birds in a nearby tree. For some reason several hundred white egrets roost in an Eucalyptus tree about 100 yards from my window...quite a sight...and a sound.
After a quick...very quick...cold shower (turns out the pilot light went out overnight on the waterheater), I went to Mikes cottage for a quick cup of coffee and then we were off on a very crowded to town. Mike is teaching English as a Second in a very exclusive Catholic High School, where the enrollment is 2,600 U.S. dollars a month...youch. He showed me the school and then I was off to explore a brand new city.

Even though I was about 1 1/2 miles from the center of town, it was very easy to find as long as I could see the spire of the church - La Parroquia, Church of St. Michael the Archangel. Many times I would drop into a narrow cobblestone street and lose sight for a block or two. Fortunately, I was born with a good sense of direction and within minutes I was standing at the base of this church built in the mid 1500's - incredble. This was the oldest thing I'd ever seen having never been to Europe.

I will try to post most of the good pictures that I took today. I can truely say this was one of the most incredible places I've ever visited. Around every corner was some incredible sight. The library in this town fills a square city block with a central open and airy courtyard. And surrounding that were small rooms with books or computer or desks. Off the courtyard were cobbled brick stairways leading to yet more rooms. Turns out this library has the second largest collection of english books and periodicals.

I'd heard that there was a very large population of american ex-pats who over the years have built a large eclectic community of artists and musicians. In a town of about 83,000, its been speculated at least 7,000 of them once called the United States home. They seemed to be all over the place, painting...sketching or playing a musical instrument of one sort or the other, especially in the park located directly adjacent to the large cathedral. The four hours that I had to kill waiting for Mike to finish up teaching went by incredibly fast. Funny thing I met is new girlfriend Magali at the library quite by accident. Mikes new girlfriend, is from France, though she hasn't been there much in the past 10 years. The two of them met while taking English as a Second Language class in Guadalahara. I will only say this, Mike is one very lucky man!!!

Turns out there is an Internet Cafe called Cafe Etc. located just across from the Library and there is where I'm to meet Mike. This place is a hangout for the American ex-pat crowd. I could see that if I didn't watch out I could spend ALL of my time in here talking to all the unique patrons here. Turns out a husband and wife from Conneticutt were there and 3 hours later, at three different locations with them its finally time to head back to Mikes for a great homemade dinner of tortillas, chicken from a local shop in town, guacamole and goat cheese. I'm afraid those reading this may be knocked over the edge, not by the weather, but more by the great mexican cuisine. I promise when I get back I will treat you all to some authentic mexican food!!!


Mike and Magali on the patio at home

One little note- the gentleman that I met at Cafe Etc., sister was one of the founding members of the radical 60's group - the SDS. It was interesting afternoon of great conversation.

One last thing- turns out Doc Severinson lives here and 3 days a week, plays with a small trio at the Bella Italia Restaurant. May have to check out this fine trumpet player from the old Johnny Carson show!!!

Till tomorrow!!!

Day 27 - February 8th - Atotonilco - A Day Like No Other

Today I was going to go into town, but not being familiar enough with the bus system, I decided to just have a low key day. But after talking to Mike's landlord for about an hour, he talked me into just jumping on the bus and giving it a go. But before I left, I decided to go for a short walk around the neighborhood. The further I walked the more interesting things got. Before I knew it I was about a mile away from home and discovered an old historic church called Sanctuary of Atotonilco. Here is a little clip I pulled from the internet -

The Sanctuary of Atotonilco is a little known Mexican treasure. The walls of the 18th century church are completely covered with paintings depicting Christ and his life and times. The church is a revered holy place for thousands of Mexicans who make yearly pilgrimmages here. Here's another link

Many of the structures around the church were in serious disrepair, almost looking as if they'd been bombed. In reading more on the internet this building was designinated by World Watch as one of the top 100 historical buildings in the WORLD...a mile walk from where I've been staying....and I happened apon it by accident.

I also walked beyound the city of Atotonilco, heading into the Mexican countryside, past simple homes, always with a dog out front, acting as alarm system. Most dogs are friendly but not always, as I found out today. This one black surly dog was not going to allow me past and there was only one way forward- past him. Just as I started to turn back, a couple with two small children in tow came around a corner. The man scolded the dog and in very good english informed that the dog wouldn't bite and his name was "niger". That name wouldn't float at home but here I quess it was ok.

I continued to walk for about another mile or so, past million dollar estates directly across the dirt road from a one room dilapated adobe hut. The disparity that I observed in Puerta Vallarta was much more pronouced here...often 50 yards apart. I'm not sure how someone in their right mind could fathom buiding such a place surrounded by such poverty. The old axiom in realty...
location...location...location...doesn't hold water here.

On my way back, I decide to explore things a little closer, this time actually going inside the church. Every square inch of this church was painted very ornately with religious depictions of ceremonies or saints. I don't know that I've ever been in as ornate church as this...absoutely incredible.

Next I probably had the most interpersonal (and homorous) experience with the locals in my almost four weeks in Mexico. Three women, probably all of seventy, dressed in brightly colored aprons were making and selling some type of tortilla, that were being cooked on a flat grill. One of the ladys informs me that they are called gorditas, the equivalent of a Mexican pita pocket. The gordittas to be made from blue corn and she fills them with a mixture of potatoes, chilis, chicken and prickly pear cactus or nopales. These three ladies were very entertaining as they tried there best to get me to understand. They would giggle like schoolgirls, talking amoungst themselves, as I sat, smiled and shrugged my shoulders. We were having a great time. The women that seemed to be the elder in the group convinced me to buy them all a soda...not a problem. I think they all sensed that i still had money in my wallet. As with home, I'm always willing to help out the local economy, even if it's 3,000 miles and a culture away.
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Not much else to report today, as I just went back to my place and hung out with Mike and Magali the rest of the day.

Pictures from today

Hasta mañana!!!