Wednesday, December 9, 2009
Traffic-Go-Round
Here is a little clip taken from the second story of a department store in Nha Trang. How no one ever runs into anyone else is still a mystery to me. As adventuresome as I consider myself, I'm not sure that I'd dare jump on cycle and try to negoiate the hectric streets of SE Asia.
MIsc. Ramblings
WARNING: This is a bit of a rambling expose and if your head spins around more than twice, I might suggest taking a little Dramamine and starting over in about 20 minutes.
It's been a couple of very mellow days as I've set into a routine here. My favorite hotel (Hein Luong), restaurants (Paradise Cafe and others) and breweries Louisiane Brewing Company Heres a link to their website - http://www.louisianebrewhouse.com.vn. It just a matter of how to fill up the time in between. One of my favorite pastimes while traveling is walking. I know that may seem mighty boring by most peoples standards, but when you travel by motorized vehicle, even by bike, you miss allot of what's happening on the street. The sights, the sounds, the smells...all the subtle nuances. One of the things that amaze me in Vietnam, that I haven't experienced in other countries, are the number of people, both men and women, young and old that will engage me in a conversation, sometimes the conversations are very short, but at least an effort is made.
Reminds me of a funny story as I was walking this afternoon, a long walk about 7 miles. It seemed the further I strayed from my hotel, the more I was drawn futher. I'll post some pictures here and I"m sure you will understand. Well anyway, I'm walking across a bridge crossing a watersay on a very narrow sidewalk. Coming towards me it this old man, at least 80, dressed in a worn dark tan suit. He says hello in a broken english and then sponntaneously grabs my hand, running his index finger from the tip of my right index finger to the base of my wrist and then raises both of his hands with all fingers extended...hmm...this is not the typical panhandling routine that I'm familiar with...he does it again...it clicks...he's telling me I'm 55 years old...I'm impressed, But like everyone here, he'd like a little something for his effort so I give him 10,000 Dong which is about 50 US cents. It buys a nice baguette sandwich with all the fixins' or a bottle of Saigon Green Beer.
Maybe this is also a good place to comment on how INEXPENSIVE things are here. One of the nicest
rooms I've stayed at in my 8 weeks of travel is only 7 dollars a night, complete with maid service, color tv, air conditioning and about 1 block away from the ocean. A pack of cigarettes is 4,000 dong or about a quarter. Confession time!!! I quit smoking over 25 years ago when the price of cigarettes hit a buck and now that hey are 25 cents...don't tell anyone, it's our little secret. If you see me with a cigarette in my hand back in Colville, I give you permission to unload a fire extinguisher on me.
I think this might also be a good time to relate a story of something that happened to me while
I was enjoying a early evening dinner at a streetside cafe in Vientiene, Laos. I see what obviously a crippled man, probably in his early 30's, wheeling a hand-propelled bicycle towards me. He gets off his bike and literally crawls over the curb and up to my table, with an outstretched hand. By this time, I'd pretty much seem them all and was becoming a bit too jaded when it came to people looking for handouts. I could have easily spent a days wages while in Cambodia giving money to the poor unfortunate victims of the landminds left scattered throughtout the countryside by the Pol Pot regime. So anyway, I extend a bill to him, I'm not sure how many Kip, the Cambodian equivalent to the dollar, it was, but I suspect maybe it was about 25 cents. He looks at it, much like a finicky cat would sniff cat food and crawls back over the curb, mounts his bike and wheels away, leaving me very dumbfounded. I guess even beggars have their standards
Rambling alert : Why is the United States one of the few countries left in the world still supporting the use of land minds. They say it's because of it's the most effective way of keeping the border between the North and South Korea secure. I say "horse pitooey". It is such an indescriminate way of killing people, often many years later, often unsuspecting children who come across them and will actually play with them. It was a very strange experience for me to be walking around in Cambodia, especially around Siem Reap and the temples to NOT wander off the trail, even a yard or two. Ok, sorry got that off my chest...I feel better.
Here is a wiki link to cambodian landmines-
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Land_mines_in_Cambodia
The Million Dollar Monk:
If I had penny for every time I heard a horn honk while in Vietnam, I'd be a millionaire.
Rule of thumb, the louder the horn...the bigger the rig. You hear a very loud horn and it's close, you could be standing on the railroad tracks
If I had a million dollars for every Buddihist monk I've seen while here in Nha Trang...well I'd be a millionaire.
Quite a change from Cambodia, Lao or Thailand, to where I could see hundreds in just
one day.
If I had 1/3 of a million dollars for every person here in Nha Trang that refused me service while
in Nha Trang I'd be a millionaire.
The first place in 8 weeks where I saw reverse discrimination...sort of humbles oneself and gives a better perspective when experienced in US. I guess I'm more surpriesed it didn't happen more, given the protracted nature of the American War, as they call it here.
If I had a quarter for every motocycle I've seen since here...well you get the idea.
I wouldn't surprised if there were more motorcycles than people here, Read someplace
the population of Nha Trang is 300,000 people. How can they all be on the street at the same time.
I've taken some video and pix of all forms of transportation, the strangest to bikes separated about 20 feet apart carrying about 20 - thirty foot pieces of steel rebar strung between them. But here is the topper, while in Da Nang I actually saw a motorcyclist balancing a small refrigerator on the passenger seat, albeit a small one. Quite a feat.
After my walk today I have a great respect for Nha Trang, as it appears it's a town with a clear vision of where it wants to go. In much of the downtown corridor the sidewalks are wide, and mostly unobstructed, made of a very nice patterned tile. Turns out they even have ordinances about street signs that would normally obstruct pedestrians.
In most cities I've been to in SE Asia, it's near impossible to walk on the sidewalk, as they are typically blocked by street vendors selling a variety of wares, motorcycles, cars parked perpendicular to the sidewalk with the fenders nearly touching the building's exterior.
While looking for a place to eat on my first night I was stopped by a Vietnamese woman, looking to show me the Paradise Restaurant's menu. Turns out she's the owner's ex aunt who is up from Saigon for a little R and R. She speaks very good english, and has a great way about her. In fact as I was writng this, she just IM'd me on yahoo and it looks like I'll have the opportunity to see her while in Saigon. If you could see me now, I'm wearing a very big cheschire cat-like grin. Might need to extend my trip an extra week or two :) If she's a good cook, I think I'll bring her back to Colville and open up a Vietnamese Restaurant. Phung, if you are reading this...I'm serious :).
Speaking of restaurants, I decided to get something a little different today--Onion Rings sounded perfect. I waited for what seemed like eternity..ok at least a half hour. They finally arrived, five of them, cooked to perfection, with a batter I could only guess it's content. They were the best onion rings I'd ever eaten...without a drop of grease. I was tempted to go back in the kitchen and offer them 100 dollars for the recipe. BTW it's my understanding that the average Vietnamese citizen lives on only $200.00 per month. Which takes me to another story.
While at the Paradise Restaurant having dinner the second day I was there, talking with Phung, a gentlemen who appeared to be Vietnamese sat in behind me, towards the street. I had my back to him and really didn't get a good look at him. Turns out that he's a friend of Phung's who also lives in Saigon. She went and sat with him, while I finished my dinner. I could barely hear their consersation above the street noise, but I could tell they were not speaking Vietnamese but instead English. How strange two vietnamese people would be speaking english. The closer I listened I swear to god I was listening to him speaking english with a Norwegian accent. Well it turns out his parents were killed when he was very young and he was adopted by a family from Norway. He now spends half the year in Vietnam and the other half in Norway. I let you figure out what time of the year he spends where. Oh...he was the one that told me about the average Vietnamese wage and many other things about the culture...with a norwegian twist.
Well...early day tomorrow. Supposed to go scuba diving, but it looks like I'm developing a bit of a head cold and from what I read...scuba and colds don't mix...so maybe just a day of some snorkeling.... Good night all....hope you enjoyed this!!!
It's been a couple of very mellow days as I've set into a routine here. My favorite hotel (Hein Luong), restaurants (Paradise Cafe and others) and breweries Louisiane Brewing Company Heres a link to their website - http://www.louisianebrewhouse.com.vn. It just a matter of how to fill up the time in between. One of my favorite pastimes while traveling is walking. I know that may seem mighty boring by most peoples standards, but when you travel by motorized vehicle, even by bike, you miss allot of what's happening on the street. The sights, the sounds, the smells...all the subtle nuances. One of the things that amaze me in Vietnam, that I haven't experienced in other countries, are the number of people, both men and women, young and old that will engage me in a conversation, sometimes the conversations are very short, but at least an effort is made.
Reminds me of a funny story as I was walking this afternoon, a long walk about 7 miles. It seemed the further I strayed from my hotel, the more I was drawn futher. I'll post some pictures here and I"m sure you will understand. Well anyway, I'm walking across a bridge crossing a watersay on a very narrow sidewalk. Coming towards me it this old man, at least 80, dressed in a worn dark tan suit. He says hello in a broken english and then sponntaneously grabs my hand, running his index finger from the tip of my right index finger to the base of my wrist and then raises both of his hands with all fingers extended...hmm...this is not the typical panhandling routine that I'm familiar with...he does it again...it clicks...he's telling me I'm 55 years old...I'm impressed, But like everyone here, he'd like a little something for his effort so I give him 10,000 Dong which is about 50 US cents. It buys a nice baguette sandwich with all the fixins' or a bottle of Saigon Green Beer.
Maybe this is also a good place to comment on how INEXPENSIVE things are here. One of the nicest
rooms I've stayed at in my 8 weeks of travel is only 7 dollars a night, complete with maid service, color tv, air conditioning and about 1 block away from the ocean. A pack of cigarettes is 4,000 dong or about a quarter. Confession time!!! I quit smoking over 25 years ago when the price of cigarettes hit a buck and now that hey are 25 cents...don't tell anyone, it's our little secret. If you see me with a cigarette in my hand back in Colville, I give you permission to unload a fire extinguisher on me.
I think this might also be a good time to relate a story of something that happened to me while
I was enjoying a early evening dinner at a streetside cafe in Vientiene, Laos. I see what obviously a crippled man, probably in his early 30's, wheeling a hand-propelled bicycle towards me. He gets off his bike and literally crawls over the curb and up to my table, with an outstretched hand. By this time, I'd pretty much seem them all and was becoming a bit too jaded when it came to people looking for handouts. I could have easily spent a days wages while in Cambodia giving money to the poor unfortunate victims of the landminds left scattered throughtout the countryside by the Pol Pot regime. So anyway, I extend a bill to him, I'm not sure how many Kip, the Cambodian equivalent to the dollar, it was, but I suspect maybe it was about 25 cents. He looks at it, much like a finicky cat would sniff cat food and crawls back over the curb, mounts his bike and wheels away, leaving me very dumbfounded. I guess even beggars have their standards
Rambling alert : Why is the United States one of the few countries left in the world still supporting the use of land minds. They say it's because of it's the most effective way of keeping the border between the North and South Korea secure. I say "horse pitooey". It is such an indescriminate way of killing people, often many years later, often unsuspecting children who come across them and will actually play with them. It was a very strange experience for me to be walking around in Cambodia, especially around Siem Reap and the temples to NOT wander off the trail, even a yard or two. Ok, sorry got that off my chest...I feel better.
Here is a wiki link to cambodian landmines-
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Land_mines_in_Cambodia
The Million Dollar Monk:
If I had penny for every time I heard a horn honk while in Vietnam, I'd be a millionaire.
Rule of thumb, the louder the horn...the bigger the rig. You hear a very loud horn and it's close, you could be standing on the railroad tracks
If I had a million dollars for every Buddihist monk I've seen while here in Nha Trang...well I'd be a millionaire.
Quite a change from Cambodia, Lao or Thailand, to where I could see hundreds in just
one day.
If I had 1/3 of a million dollars for every person here in Nha Trang that refused me service while
in Nha Trang I'd be a millionaire.
The first place in 8 weeks where I saw reverse discrimination...sort of humbles oneself and gives a better perspective when experienced in US. I guess I'm more surpriesed it didn't happen more, given the protracted nature of the American War, as they call it here.
If I had a quarter for every motocycle I've seen since here...well you get the idea.
I wouldn't surprised if there were more motorcycles than people here, Read someplace
the population of Nha Trang is 300,000 people. How can they all be on the street at the same time.
I've taken some video and pix of all forms of transportation, the strangest to bikes separated about 20 feet apart carrying about 20 - thirty foot pieces of steel rebar strung between them. But here is the topper, while in Da Nang I actually saw a motorcyclist balancing a small refrigerator on the passenger seat, albeit a small one. Quite a feat.
After my walk today I have a great respect for Nha Trang, as it appears it's a town with a clear vision of where it wants to go. In much of the downtown corridor the sidewalks are wide, and mostly unobstructed, made of a very nice patterned tile. Turns out they even have ordinances about street signs that would normally obstruct pedestrians.
In most cities I've been to in SE Asia, it's near impossible to walk on the sidewalk, as they are typically blocked by street vendors selling a variety of wares, motorcycles, cars parked perpendicular to the sidewalk with the fenders nearly touching the building's exterior.
While looking for a place to eat on my first night I was stopped by a Vietnamese woman, looking to show me the Paradise Restaurant's menu. Turns out she's the owner's ex aunt who is up from Saigon for a little R and R. She speaks very good english, and has a great way about her. In fact as I was writng this, she just IM'd me on yahoo and it looks like I'll have the opportunity to see her while in Saigon. If you could see me now, I'm wearing a very big cheschire cat-like grin. Might need to extend my trip an extra week or two :) If she's a good cook, I think I'll bring her back to Colville and open up a Vietnamese Restaurant. Phung, if you are reading this...I'm serious :).
Speaking of restaurants, I decided to get something a little different today--Onion Rings sounded perfect. I waited for what seemed like eternity..ok at least a half hour. They finally arrived, five of them, cooked to perfection, with a batter I could only guess it's content. They were the best onion rings I'd ever eaten...without a drop of grease. I was tempted to go back in the kitchen and offer them 100 dollars for the recipe. BTW it's my understanding that the average Vietnamese citizen lives on only $200.00 per month. Which takes me to another story.
While at the Paradise Restaurant having dinner the second day I was there, talking with Phung, a gentlemen who appeared to be Vietnamese sat in behind me, towards the street. I had my back to him and really didn't get a good look at him. Turns out that he's a friend of Phung's who also lives in Saigon. She went and sat with him, while I finished my dinner. I could barely hear their consersation above the street noise, but I could tell they were not speaking Vietnamese but instead English. How strange two vietnamese people would be speaking english. The closer I listened I swear to god I was listening to him speaking english with a Norwegian accent. Well it turns out his parents were killed when he was very young and he was adopted by a family from Norway. He now spends half the year in Vietnam and the other half in Norway. I let you figure out what time of the year he spends where. Oh...he was the one that told me about the average Vietnamese wage and many other things about the culture...with a norwegian twist.
Well...early day tomorrow. Supposed to go scuba diving, but it looks like I'm developing a bit of a head cold and from what I read...scuba and colds don't mix...so maybe just a day of some snorkeling.... Good night all....hope you enjoyed this!!!
Saturday, December 5, 2009
Day 3 - Vietnam ...It seemed like such a good idea
Three days...no sunshine
The day started out with a nice cup of black vietnamese coffee and what I thought was to be something like an omelette, what arrived was a toasted baguette cut lengthwise with a scrambled egg, cheese, sliced ham tomato and lettuce. I can say what arrives at the table is rarely what I expect. But not once, have I not liked what was served. I'm thinking by the time I get back to Colville, my deep cravings for good asian food might be supressed, for at least a week It's still my intention before I leave SE Asia, to take a cooking class. I had the opportunity to take one in Chang Mai, and should have, especially as much as I like Thai Food.
Once I finished my breakfast, I went for a to the market, that was situated along the edge a inner coastal bay. You'd think after 5 weeks of going to markets, I'd tire of them, but because each one is so uniquely different, especially so if they are NOT geared for tourists. I've always loved watching people no matter where I've been, and while in SE Asia there has been no shortage interesting , colorful, characters, I"m usually good at resisting the constant bombardment of mostly women getting me to buy there product, or look at their booth. For whatever reason, I was a softy today buying things from at least five booths. What the heck with Christmas coming up, it's a perfect place to buy things, even though I have to stuff it into my backpack and carry it home.
After shopping I decided it was time to GO TO THE BEACH...something I hadn't done - not even once. After getting directions from the hotel receptionist, I was on my way. I"m nut sure what beach the directions were to but it was at least 6 miles, not 2k. As I was walking towards the beach I passed what I guess would be called a covered patio, where there were at least 20 men drinking and playing cards. One of the gentleman catches my attention calling out a friendly hello in very good English.. THIS IS WHERE I SHOULD HAVE RUN!! Introducing the main character in today's installment of "Adventu
res With Bob" - Milo, pronounced Meelo, a 33 year old Vietnamese. He asks me where I'm going, which everybody here in Hoi An is always asking. I tell hime I"m walking to the beach and he offers the motorcycle services of his friend. We negoiate a price and we're off. This was the wisest 3 dollars I'd spent, as it would have taken at least two hours to get there and back. Once we get there I take my sandles off and step into the warm ocean waters of the Pacific. A long anticipated action, but as far as the sun...not today or anytime soon. I spent about 10 minutes there soaking up the beauty of this deserted beach, with absolutely no one for miles, just two dogs that want to play. I love beach dogs, they seem to have much better attitudes than city dogs or village dogs.
We head back to Milo's and he invites me for a beer or two. This is what the first one looked like. Turns out the beer is called Ba Ba Ba which is Vietnamese for 333. There is where it get a bit funny. Milo asks me my name, after telling me his. I tell him Bob, he repeats BaBa, I tell him again..BaBa his response. About the 10th time I realize he's not going to be able to pronounce my name..from time forward I'm known by him, all his friends, sister, mother and father as BaBa or probably in there language as 33. Guess I've been called worse. Actually one time I was paged in high school as Barbara Vey.
After about 2 beers, hi invites me back to watch the Soccer, or Football as it's known in the rest of the world around 5:30 - a game between Vietnam and Timor. My motorcycle driver agrees to take me back to my Hotel and then pick me up around 5:30. After taking a shower and taking care of a few loose ends, I steip outside to have my ride waiting.
Turns out Milo not only went and got more beer but also went to the Market and bought and prepared some wonderful food. It seems as if his place is the neighborhood hang out as people were always coming and going. Strange thing was the party kept on moving from one residence to the other.
Another very red, blinking red flag. DO NOT MIX BEER WITH ANY OTHER HARD LIQUOR!!! I learned that lesson long ago, and for the most part never do...but this was different, I guess it's a tradition to pass a shot glass of vietnamese whiskey, probably made with rice, filling it as you finish it and passing it to the person on the right. I lost count somewhere around 5 or 6....or was it 10 or 15. All I know I was starting to get a bit of a buzz going.
I must say Milo was the perfect host, explaining many of the foods he prepared, and some of the customs. I forget to mention it, but Milo told me he was a cook by trade, and was currently on a 30 day holiday. Back to the soccer game, turns out the East Timr doesn't have much of a club. By the end of game, Vietnam won by a score of 4 to 0. Everytime they scored I would "high five" everyone sitting around the table. By now my beer is starting to look a distorted, but I'm still doing ok. Not sure what percentage alcohol the whiskey had, but it had a potent kick.
Not sure what time it was, probably around 9, Milo ask me and several others to go to Da Nang, about a 20 mile drive to the north. I say "Why Not?" which seems to be the saying of the day. What I should have done earlier was had my standard response to that question - "because I don't foo king want to" but that wouldn't have been very hospital. So we hop on Milo's motorcycle and take the about 30 minute ride. To his credit, he was a very safe driver. Two of his friends wind up joining us.
I'm not sure what kind of club this was, other than very nicely decorated, sort of in a warehouse retro theme complete with what look like fifty five gallon barrels with a faux flames. When we got there, 5 young men dressed in orange overalls were dancing on stage...hmmm...but it wasn't too long and they were replaced by young asian women. I'm starting to get the idea. The beers keeping coming and by the end I'm presented with a bill...much higher than I anticipated. I look at it...there is several shots of Remy- Martin on it. Not my bill, I protest trying to be heard over the blaring loud speakers. I'm taken back to the office where things are straightened out. We finally leave around 1:30 heading back to Hoi An. I should also mention here, that Milo wanted the equivalent of about 100 dollars for the day. Not something I negoiated, but always expected, I give in and pay him.
If I had to do it all over again, I wouldn't hesitate. It was a very interesting day, being invited by him and his family and friends to share food and drink. But I would have been a less than obliging guest at about the third beer and one or two shots of vietnamese whiskey. I woke up the next morning feeling better than I had anticipated, but still a slightly hurting unit. Because I didn't do much today, I'll just say that it was a very quiet, lost kind of day. Around 2 pm, I got up the strength to go out for some food. A bowl of vegetable and chicken soup was just the fix. I usually don't like cooked carrots, but they tasted great.
Thanks for reading and if you'd like to comment...click below...tomorrow...off to Nha Trang by train. BTW - I have to mention this. Weather forecast for Hoi An...sunny (I've just spend 3 rainfilled days here...no more) ...forecast for Nha Trang...rain for the next 3 days...oh well. Had I read beforehand I would have discovered this is a very normail pattern for Northern Vietnam...it's tail end of the rainy season. Not true in most of the rest ot SE Asia. Should just consider myself lucky for so little rain I've experienced
The day started out with a nice cup of black vietnamese coffee and what I thought was to be something like an omelette, what arrived was a toasted baguette cut lengthwise with a scrambled egg, cheese, sliced ham tomato and lettuce. I can say what arrives at the table is rarely what I expect. But not once, have I not liked what was served. I'm thinking by the time I get back to Colville, my deep cravings for good asian food might be supressed, for at least a week It's still my intention before I leave SE Asia, to take a cooking class. I had the opportunity to take one in Chang Mai, and should have, especially as much as I like Thai Food.
Once I finished my breakfast, I went for a to the market, that was situated along the edge a inner coastal bay. You'd think after 5 weeks of going to markets, I'd tire of them, but because each one is so uniquely different, especially so if they are NOT geared for tourists. I've always loved watching people no matter where I've been, and while in SE Asia there has been no shortage interesting , colorful, characters, I"m usually good at resisting the constant bombardment of mostly women getting me to buy there product, or look at their booth. For whatever reason, I was a softy today buying things from at least five booths. What the heck with Christmas coming up, it's a perfect place to buy things, even though I have to stuff it into my backpack and carry it home.
res With Bob" - Milo, pronounced Meelo, a 33 year old Vietnamese. He asks me where I'm going, which everybody here in Hoi An is always asking. I tell hime I"m walking to the beach and he offers the motorcycle services of his friend. We negoiate a price and we're off. This was the wisest 3 dollars I'd spent, as it would have taken at least two hours to get there and back. Once we get there I take my sandles off and step into the warm ocean waters of the Pacific. A long anticipated action, but as far as the sun...not today or anytime soon. I spent about 10 minutes there soaking up the beauty of this deserted beach, with absolutely no one for miles, just two dogs that want to play. I love beach dogs, they seem to have much better attitudes than city dogs or village dogs.
After about 2 beers, hi invites me back to watch the Soccer, or Football as it's known in the rest of the world around 5:30 - a game between Vietnam and Timor. My motorcycle driver agrees to take me back to my Hotel and then pick me up around 5:30. After taking a shower and taking care of a few loose ends, I steip outside to have my ride waiting.
Turns out Milo not only went and got more beer but also went to the Market and bought and prepared some wonderful food. It seems as if his place is the neighborhood hang out as people were always coming and going. Strange thing was the party kept on moving from one residence to the other.
Another very red, blinking red flag. DO NOT MIX BEER WITH ANY OTHER HARD LIQUOR!!! I learned that lesson long ago, and for the most part never do...but this was different, I guess it's a tradition to pass a shot glass of vietnamese whiskey, probably made with rice, filling it as you finish it and passing it to the person on the right. I lost count somewhere around 5 or 6....or was it 10 or 15. All I know I was starting to get a bit of a buzz going.
Not sure what time it was, probably around 9, Milo ask me and several others to go to Da Nang, about a 20 mile drive to the north. I say "Why Not?" which seems to be the saying of the day. What I should have done earlier was had my standard response to that question - "because I don't foo king want to" but that wouldn't have been very hospital. So we hop on Milo's motorcycle and take the about 30 minute ride. To his credit, he was a very safe driver. Two of his friends wind up joining us.
I'm not sure what kind of club this was, other than very nicely decorated, sort of in a warehouse retro theme complete with what look like fifty five gallon barrels with a faux flames. When we got there, 5 young men dressed in orange overalls were dancing on stage...hmmm...but it wasn't too long and they were replaced by young asian women. I'm starting to get the idea. The beers keeping coming and by the end I'm presented with a bill...much higher than I anticipated. I look at it...there is several shots of Remy- Martin on it. Not my bill, I protest trying to be heard over the blaring loud speakers. I'm taken back to the office where things are straightened out. We finally leave around 1:30 heading back to Hoi An. I should also mention here, that Milo wanted the equivalent of about 100 dollars for the day. Not something I negoiated, but always expected, I give in and pay him.
If I had to do it all over again, I wouldn't hesitate. It was a very interesting day, being invited by him and his family and friends to share food and drink. But I would have been a less than obliging guest at about the third beer and one or two shots of vietnamese whiskey. I woke up the next morning feeling better than I had anticipated, but still a slightly hurting unit. Because I didn't do much today, I'll just say that it was a very quiet, lost kind of day. Around 2 pm, I got up the strength to go out for some food. A bowl of vegetable and chicken soup was just the fix. I usually don't like cooked carrots, but they tasted great.
Thanks for reading and if you'd like to comment...click below...tomorrow...off to Nha Trang by train. BTW - I have to mention this. Weather forecast for Hoi An...sunny (I've just spend 3 rainfilled days here...no more) ...forecast for Nha Trang...rain for the next 3 days...oh well. Had I read beforehand I would have discovered this is a very normail pattern for Northern Vietnam...it's tail end of the rainy season. Not true in most of the rest ot SE Asia. Should just consider myself lucky for so little rain I've experienced
Thursday, December 3, 2009
Back in Vietnam - Day 2
Hey...where did the sunshine go?
Woke up this morning to overcast sky, that spit intermittent showers. So this is the way things are going to be for the next day. How ironic, I've been purposely avoiding the beach for the past 40 days, saving it for the last 2 weeks...Oh well. To think I could have gone to the beaches in southern cambodia, or the reknown islands off the coast of Thailand. Mother nature is a bitch :) But again, I can't say I would have done my trip any different.
As with mornings, I start my day with a cup of coffee, when I can find it. Turns out there is a nicely appointed coffee shop directly across the boulevard from my hotel - Apple Coffee complete with the macintosh apple logo. I sit down and am presenty with menu completely in Vietnamese. I must say I prefer vietnamese over lao, thai or cambodian, at least I recognize the letters. I don't see anything that resembles an americano, my favorite stateside drink. So I ask my waitress for a coffee. She doesn't understand, and brings someone whose english is minutely better. Long story- short. What arrives at my table looks nothing like any coffee I've ever drank. It comes in a metal containter with a lid, sort of like a melitta drip coffee maker, but nothing is coming out except maybe a drop or two. At this rate, it will be well into the evening before I get anything close to a cup of coffee. I say something, and my waitress comes back with this glass with about one once of this very dark drink half full of ice...so much for HOT coffee. I'm sure there was coffee in it, but it tasted more like chocolate, and was very sweet...but I will tell you this...I got one heck of a buzz...wrong drink...right effect.
Once I left the coffee place it was now time to plan my escape, as 18 hours of another big city, Da Nang, was enough. I decided to take the public bus and was told it was only 1k away. I could walk that easily in 10 minutes. I decided to walk there, and check it out before the bus left at 3pm. One hour later I still didn't find it. I decided to bite the bullet around 1pm, hire a taxi and get a lift there...save the frustration for later. The taxi driver takes me there, half way across town, for twice the price he quoted me...still cheap. Turns out the bus leaves probably every 15 minutes and drove with a block or two of my hotel. While on the bus I witnessed my first motorcycle accident in 40 days. Three motorcylces were involved. It must have been serious as there was an ambulance just leaving.
Back to the bus- this bus must have stopped 30 times by the time it left Da Nang picking up anyone and everything...bikes, motorcycles...and I swear the contents of a studio apartment, maybe minus the fridge. After about an hour i get to Hoi An, a tourist trap about 30k south of Danang. There are more tailors on one block then all of washington...might be a good place to replenish my aging wardrobe.
One thing for sure, there are plenty of farang (foreigners) so I'm no longer gawked at like a one-eyed eight foot martian...I'm a little sad..I was just starting to get used to it.
As I write this, I'm sitting in an internet cafe with mostly teenagers playing games...very raucous...and now I'm off in search of a beer.
Oops...almost forgot to mention - motorcycle accident number 2..this time I had a front row seat, turning my head in the direction, just as there bikes collided, all hitting the pavement. Fortunately this time...no one was hurt. I'm one of those people when they see an accident... I run...the other direction...blood and me don't get along well.
Ok...so long for now...I'll try to stay out of trouble...here it's pretty easy here in Hoi An
Woke up this morning to overcast sky, that spit intermittent showers. So this is the way things are going to be for the next day. How ironic, I've been purposely avoiding the beach for the past 40 days, saving it for the last 2 weeks...Oh well. To think I could have gone to the beaches in southern cambodia, or the reknown islands off the coast of Thailand. Mother nature is a bitch :) But again, I can't say I would have done my trip any different.
As with mornings, I start my day with a cup of coffee, when I can find it. Turns out there is a nicely appointed coffee shop directly across the boulevard from my hotel - Apple Coffee complete with the macintosh apple logo. I sit down and am presenty with menu completely in Vietnamese. I must say I prefer vietnamese over lao, thai or cambodian, at least I recognize the letters. I don't see anything that resembles an americano, my favorite stateside drink. So I ask my waitress for a coffee. She doesn't understand, and brings someone whose english is minutely better. Long story- short. What arrives at my table looks nothing like any coffee I've ever drank. It comes in a metal containter with a lid, sort of like a melitta drip coffee maker, but nothing is coming out except maybe a drop or two. At this rate, it will be well into the evening before I get anything close to a cup of coffee. I say something, and my waitress comes back with this glass with about one once of this very dark drink half full of ice...so much for HOT coffee. I'm sure there was coffee in it, but it tasted more like chocolate, and was very sweet...but I will tell you this...I got one heck of a buzz...wrong drink...right effect.
Once I left the coffee place it was now time to plan my escape, as 18 hours of another big city, Da Nang, was enough. I decided to take the public bus and was told it was only 1k away. I could walk that easily in 10 minutes. I decided to walk there, and check it out before the bus left at 3pm. One hour later I still didn't find it. I decided to bite the bullet around 1pm, hire a taxi and get a lift there...save the frustration for later. The taxi driver takes me there, half way across town, for twice the price he quoted me...still cheap. Turns out the bus leaves probably every 15 minutes and drove with a block or two of my hotel. While on the bus I witnessed my first motorcycle accident in 40 days. Three motorcylces were involved. It must have been serious as there was an ambulance just leaving.
Back to the bus- this bus must have stopped 30 times by the time it left Da Nang picking up anyone and everything...bikes, motorcycles...and I swear the contents of a studio apartment, maybe minus the fridge. After about an hour i get to Hoi An, a tourist trap about 30k south of Danang. There are more tailors on one block then all of washington...might be a good place to replenish my aging wardrobe.
One thing for sure, there are plenty of farang (foreigners) so I'm no longer gawked at like a one-eyed eight foot martian...I'm a little sad..I was just starting to get used to it.
As I write this, I'm sitting in an internet cafe with mostly teenagers playing games...very raucous...and now I'm off in search of a beer.
Oops...almost forgot to mention - motorcycle accident number 2..this time I had a front row seat, turning my head in the direction, just as there bikes collided, all hitting the pavement. Fortunately this time...no one was hurt. I'm one of those people when they see an accident... I run...the other direction...blood and me don't get along well.
Ok...so long for now...I'll try to stay out of trouble...here it's pretty easy here in Hoi An
Wednesday, December 2, 2009
I'm back.....
VIETNAM OR BUST!!!
NO HUE...DaNanG
(no way...dang)
------
Just a little detail info first.
Ok...didn't want to have to do this...but it looks like I have no other choice. It turns out I can't use facebook in Vietnam see link and excerpt below-
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Facebook
Facebook has met with some controversy. It has been blocked intermittently in several countries including Syria,[7] China[8], Vietnam[9], and Iran.[10] It has also been banned at many places of work to discourage employees from wasting time using the service.[11] Privacy has also been an issue, and it has been compromised several times. Facebook settled a lawsuit regarding claims over source code and intellectual property.[12]
--------
So it's back writing in my blog now rather than my daily postings on facebook. I've been meaning to write more on my blog site, but it's been much more awkward in SE Asia. One locating fast enough internet connections, and it's seems on this trip, I spend more time exploring and getting in trouble than I do writing.
I would feel remiss in my duties as an advance scouting party, not giving a detailed account of the past 36 hours. My trip has been going extremely well, on time flights, smooth busrides, not feeling like I'm in a different world...that was until 8am yesterday morning. After having a nice, but brief goodbye with Silvie, my
new acquaintance from Switzerland, whom I'd met on a bus from Vientiane to Vang Vien, Laos. I met my ride, he driving, me sitting in a sidecar like seat, traveling through the morning rush hour streets of Pakse. About halfway into the 1/2 hour ride to the bus station, a father and young son, pulled out in front of us. Thanks to the evasive actions of my driver, we narrowly missed him. I wasn't too rattled, but he sure was. I'm sure if he hit him, I'd been thrown out of my seat into the streets. I'll say this now...my fairy godmother got a VERY good workout over the last day and a half. If I was a cat...I burnt up a couple of lifes.
Well we finally make it to the bus station with about a 1/2 hour to spare. The bus finally arrives, I get on, and
find a seat, turns out it was taken, and so were the next 2 I chose. Most busese in SE Asia are made for people 5 feet tall...or shorter. I became very acquainted with my knee caps. Oh...and there was a fifty pound bag of rice at my feet. When I bought the ticket from a streetside travel agent, I thought I was getting on a VIP bus which in the past meant, legroom, not stopping at every small town...and a bus in good condition. This was none of those. I'm starting to see a pattern here as I write this...I'm whining...promise not to do much more of this. To me when traveling, it's the unexpected things that make it an adventure. Anyone can
take a plane and travel with a tour group, but it takes a special breed of crazy to do the things I've done, many of them rather spontaneously.
Ok..back to our story...Along the way, it seems as if the bus is having some kind of mechanical difficulty, as the assistant periodically would lift a cover from the back of the bus and tinker with something. About the third time...the tinkering didn't do anything...a bus without a working clutch in the middle of the road...in
the middle of nowhere Laos. I've traveled on first class busses...second classes and a few third class...this
one was NO class. In addition, I was the only farang, short for foreigner out of about 38 passengers. About
an hour later, we had a tranmission torn apart and the driver/mechanic with a look of dispair. Fortunately
a truck taxi, a truck with a canopy and seats attached to the truck bed. He loads half of the bus into his
taxi and motions me to come sit up front, to sit behind him...shoehorned between the driver seat and
the back window...what I would give to be sandwiched back in the bus. It was a 70 mile ride from where
the bus broke down to the Lao/Vietnam border...and 4 pm. I was supposed to be safely in Hue Vietnam at 6 pm...looking very unlikely. A half hour into the ride, the front right tire blows out. I swear not a person in the group had ever changed a flat. I couldn't watch any more, as it looked like they were ready to round off the lugnuts, and jumped in and loosened them. I wasn't looking at my watch, but I swear it took over an hour. Don't expect to see any Lao Nationals anytime soon as wheel changers at any of the Nascar races.
I have to mention this, though I have no idea what it meant, but an elderly lady, after the tire was finally put back on, took off her hat, grabbed my hand and then rubbed her head with my hand...either she was showing her appreciation, or she had something so contagious she wouldn't use her own hand.
Ok...on the road again...for 15 minutes. The was a rather load noise coming from the outside of the truck. Turns out the rear wheel was about ready to disintegrate, one of the wheel weld breaking. Same routine, but
this time substantianlly faster. I should also mention, it's amazing that any car can drive the road we didn't without getting at least one flat. The roads were so potholed making Spokane's roads look as smoth as a runway. It's my understanding that Laos was one of the most bombed countries during the Vietnam war, even though we never declared war on them. As bombers would fly to Vietnam from Thailand over Laos, and if for whatever reason they were unable to deliver they're payload, they would turn back and drop their full loads on unexpecting Laotians. The reason i bring this up is....some of the potholes looked as big as bomb craters.
Of...back to our adventure. Just 10 miles this side of the border we come to a customs check point, a uniformed officer looks inside the back of the truck to see about 20 passengers and then to the front, see's me and says farang...not a good sign. We sit there for about an hour, not sure waiting for what, and as quickly we stopped...we were on our way again. Damn...what I would give to be able to speak Lao. In the past month I've been in four countries...with four different languages and alphabets, if you can call them alphabets...Cambodia being the absolute worse..its a mix between sanskrit...no kidding...and something else. I'm not sure what a dictionary would look like...or noone has been brave enough to compile one. Sorry about all the wandering...maybe I should have blogged more and spared those details.
So we arrive in this small town of probably 1,000 people...not a farang in sight...or any signage in English, except one...Guest House...saved. Should mention to, that it turns out the border closes at 6pm. I'll keep this simple...I got a room...and had a nice sleep...
The next morning, this morning I guess. What a long day! I catch the bus out in front of the guest house at 7pm and it's off to the border. Fortunately there were two 20's something travelers. A beauty from northern Italy and a fansinating girl from Germany. I was giddy...english speaking people...and cute :). I should also mention, that I had no KIP (Lao $'s) as they are absolutely worthless in any other country, and had two us 20.00...and I burned those up between a room and a few other incidentals. At the border....not a dime in my pocket...and I essentially was a stoway on this bus, as it was a different bus company that I bought the orginal ticket.
I'm going to cut to the chase here as I can see this is getting drawn out, and even have my suspicions that most of you have already hit the return button by now. Turns out I've been carrying a book for the past month with the equivalent of about 60 dollars in Vietnam Dong...about 1,000,000 dong, stuck between the pages...and for whatever reason remembered once I got into vietnam...thank you again fairy godmother, one for the foresight of sticking the money in there..and the important part...remembering.
I'm now in DaNang, on the coast of central Vietnam, looking for anyone that is not asian. In four hours, I've only seen one....me in the mirror!!! and the chance of anymore...nill...nothing but vietnam citizenry on motorcycles...millions of them.
Tuesday night in Da Nang. Update: Actually saw one other farang from a distance. They do exist. As
I've been walking around today, I'm thinking if an 8 foot martian was to drop down in the center of Colville, he may acutally get less attention than I have over the last half day. I'll find people staring at me and I'll just look at them and smile. This evening, I sat at a local sidewalk bar and watched the first soccer game of the 25th annual SE Asian Games... Vietnam against Thailand. The game was literally being watched at every store, bar, hotel...anything that was open. When Vietnam made any great offensive move you could hear the cheers up and down the street, even above all the motorcycles. I think even those that were driving cars were listening to the game on the radio, as all sudden they'd start honking their horns...even more than they normally do. Thailand was the first to score at about 10 minutes into the second half...and with about 5 minutes left, Vietnam scored on a penalty...The game finishing in a 1-1 tie.
Tomorrow...it's off to a new place- Hoi An...just down the coast...I hear it's wonderful...with many farang.
Thanks for reading...I'll be sure to post more regularly.
Bob (with slightly more grey hair ...what's left of it)
VIETNAM OR BUST!!!
NO HUE...DaNanG
(no way...dang)
------
Just a little detail info first.
Ok...didn't want to have to do this...but it looks like I have no other choice. It turns out I can't use facebook in Vietnam see link and excerpt below-
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Facebook
Facebook has met with some controversy. It has been blocked intermittently in several countries including Syria,[7] China[8], Vietnam[9], and Iran.[10] It has also been banned at many places of work to discourage employees from wasting time using the service.[11] Privacy has also been an issue, and it has been compromised several times. Facebook settled a lawsuit regarding claims over source code and intellectual property.[12]
--------
So it's back writing in my blog now rather than my daily postings on facebook. I've been meaning to write more on my blog site, but it's been much more awkward in SE Asia. One locating fast enough internet connections, and it's seems on this trip, I spend more time exploring and getting in trouble than I do writing.
I would feel remiss in my duties as an advance scouting party, not giving a detailed account of the past 36 hours. My trip has been going extremely well, on time flights, smooth busrides, not feeling like I'm in a different world...that was until 8am yesterday morning. After having a nice, but brief goodbye with Silvie, my
new acquaintance from Switzerland, whom I'd met on a bus from Vientiane to Vang Vien, Laos. I met my ride, he driving, me sitting in a sidecar like seat, traveling through the morning rush hour streets of Pakse. About halfway into the 1/2 hour ride to the bus station, a father and young son, pulled out in front of us. Thanks to the evasive actions of my driver, we narrowly missed him. I wasn't too rattled, but he sure was. I'm sure if he hit him, I'd been thrown out of my seat into the streets. I'll say this now...my fairy godmother got a VERY good workout over the last day and a half. If I was a cat...I burnt up a couple of lifes.
Well we finally make it to the bus station with about a 1/2 hour to spare. The bus finally arrives, I get on, and
find a seat, turns out it was taken, and so were the next 2 I chose. Most busese in SE Asia are made for people 5 feet tall...or shorter. I became very acquainted with my knee caps. Oh...and there was a fifty pound bag of rice at my feet. When I bought the ticket from a streetside travel agent, I thought I was getting on a VIP bus which in the past meant, legroom, not stopping at every small town...and a bus in good condition. This was none of those. I'm starting to see a pattern here as I write this...I'm whining...promise not to do much more of this. To me when traveling, it's the unexpected things that make it an adventure. Anyone can
take a plane and travel with a tour group, but it takes a special breed of crazy to do the things I've done, many of them rather spontaneously.
Ok..back to our story...Along the way, it seems as if the bus is having some kind of mechanical difficulty, as the assistant periodically would lift a cover from the back of the bus and tinker with something. About the third time...the tinkering didn't do anything...a bus without a working clutch in the middle of the road...in
the middle of nowhere Laos. I've traveled on first class busses...second classes and a few third class...this
one was NO class. In addition, I was the only farang, short for foreigner out of about 38 passengers. About
an hour later, we had a tranmission torn apart and the driver/mechanic with a look of dispair. Fortunately
a truck taxi, a truck with a canopy and seats attached to the truck bed. He loads half of the bus into his
taxi and motions me to come sit up front, to sit behind him...shoehorned between the driver seat and
the back window...what I would give to be sandwiched back in the bus. It was a 70 mile ride from where
the bus broke down to the Lao/Vietnam border...and 4 pm. I was supposed to be safely in Hue Vietnam at 6 pm...looking very unlikely. A half hour into the ride, the front right tire blows out. I swear not a person in the group had ever changed a flat. I couldn't watch any more, as it looked like they were ready to round off the lugnuts, and jumped in and loosened them. I wasn't looking at my watch, but I swear it took over an hour. Don't expect to see any Lao Nationals anytime soon as wheel changers at any of the Nascar races.
I have to mention this, though I have no idea what it meant, but an elderly lady, after the tire was finally put back on, took off her hat, grabbed my hand and then rubbed her head with my hand...either she was showing her appreciation, or she had something so contagious she wouldn't use her own hand.
Ok...on the road again...for 15 minutes. The was a rather load noise coming from the outside of the truck. Turns out the rear wheel was about ready to disintegrate, one of the wheel weld breaking. Same routine, but
this time substantianlly faster. I should also mention, it's amazing that any car can drive the road we didn't without getting at least one flat. The roads were so potholed making Spokane's roads look as smoth as a runway. It's my understanding that Laos was one of the most bombed countries during the Vietnam war, even though we never declared war on them. As bombers would fly to Vietnam from Thailand over Laos, and if for whatever reason they were unable to deliver they're payload, they would turn back and drop their full loads on unexpecting Laotians. The reason i bring this up is....some of the potholes looked as big as bomb craters.
Of...back to our adventure. Just 10 miles this side of the border we come to a customs check point, a uniformed officer looks inside the back of the truck to see about 20 passengers and then to the front, see's me and says farang...not a good sign. We sit there for about an hour, not sure waiting for what, and as quickly we stopped...we were on our way again. Damn...what I would give to be able to speak Lao. In the past month I've been in four countries...with four different languages and alphabets, if you can call them alphabets...Cambodia being the absolute worse..its a mix between sanskrit...no kidding...and something else. I'm not sure what a dictionary would look like...or noone has been brave enough to compile one. Sorry about all the wandering...maybe I should have blogged more and spared those details.
So we arrive in this small town of probably 1,000 people...not a farang in sight...or any signage in English, except one...Guest House...saved. Should mention to, that it turns out the border closes at 6pm. I'll keep this simple...I got a room...and had a nice sleep...
The next morning, this morning I guess. What a long day! I catch the bus out in front of the guest house at 7pm and it's off to the border. Fortunately there were two 20's something travelers. A beauty from northern Italy and a fansinating girl from Germany. I was giddy...english speaking people...and cute :). I should also mention, that I had no KIP (Lao $'s) as they are absolutely worthless in any other country, and had two us 20.00...and I burned those up between a room and a few other incidentals. At the border....not a dime in my pocket...and I essentially was a stoway on this bus, as it was a different bus company that I bought the orginal ticket.
I'm going to cut to the chase here as I can see this is getting drawn out, and even have my suspicions that most of you have already hit the return button by now. Turns out I've been carrying a book for the past month with the equivalent of about 60 dollars in Vietnam Dong...about 1,000,000 dong, stuck between the pages...and for whatever reason remembered once I got into vietnam...thank you again fairy godmother, one for the foresight of sticking the money in there..and the important part...remembering.
I'm now in DaNang, on the coast of central Vietnam, looking for anyone that is not asian. In four hours, I've only seen one....me in the mirror!!! and the chance of anymore...nill...nothing but vietnam citizenry on motorcycles...millions of them.
Tuesday night in Da Nang. Update: Actually saw one other farang from a distance. They do exist. As
I've been walking around today, I'm thinking if an 8 foot martian was to drop down in the center of Colville, he may acutally get less attention than I have over the last half day. I'll find people staring at me and I'll just look at them and smile. This evening, I sat at a local sidewalk bar and watched the first soccer game of the 25th annual SE Asian Games... Vietnam against Thailand. The game was literally being watched at every store, bar, hotel...anything that was open. When Vietnam made any great offensive move you could hear the cheers up and down the street, even above all the motorcycles. I think even those that were driving cars were listening to the game on the radio, as all sudden they'd start honking their horns...even more than they normally do. Thailand was the first to score at about 10 minutes into the second half...and with about 5 minutes left, Vietnam scored on a penalty...The game finishing in a 1-1 tie.
Tomorrow...it's off to a new place- Hoi An...just down the coast...I hear it's wonderful...with many farang.
Thanks for reading...I'll be sure to post more regularly.
Bob (with slightly more grey hair ...what's left of it)
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